It
was 4:45 am, dark and chilly on Crocodile Island as five of us
met up on the Nile side shore of this
Movenpick
resort. We had
discussed taking a balloon ride at Luxor
even before our tour
began, but that was an on again off again proposition, as the
government investigated how safe this particular activity was
for tourists. However, after new regulations were established,
the balloons were once again permitted to fly, but I had
managed to book our place on one of them only the day before
this particular adventure. Arrangements were then made by my
friends at Flats in Luxor to pick us up by boat that early
morning. Only morning flights are allowed, because later in
the day, winds could pose problems for these lighter than air
crafts.
Though rather dark, we spotted our boat soon after arriving
at the shore, just a few yards from the Movenpick
hotel. It
was a bit of an adventure just boarding the small vessel, as
one of our members who was using a cane after some recent hip
surgery, and the rest of us had to make our way down the rocky
shore in the dark. Then, there was the small (thin) gangplank
we had to navigate in order to board the boat, no small feat
particularly for our disabled member. We nevertheless
made it aboard with only a few grumbles and complaints, and
were soon headed down the Nile
in the chilly darkness towards
a dock on the West Bank. It was about a fifteen or twenty
minute ride, and I was not really dressed for the morning
whether, but the captain loaned me a headscarf that certainly
made things a bit more comfortable. However, I also had
considerable reservations about how cold it would be up in a
balloon this time of the morning.
In fact, I had not planned on making the ascent myself, but
rather photographing the adventure from below. However, one of
the original members of our tour, who had scheduled the balloon
ride, had ended up sick and was unable to make it that
morning. Since the reservation was for five, I decided to go
up with the rest of our small group. Now, I am very happy
things worked out
as they did.
We were met on the West Bank
at Luxor by several busses
that would carry my group and others to the launch site. It
was a relatively short ride, which included a brief safety
discussion. Then we made a turn and suddenly, in a clearing,
found our balloon. I'm not too sure what I had expected.
Coming from West Texas, I know a few balloonists, though I had
never ridden in one, but I have seen their rigs, which usually
consist of small baskets capable of holding from one to maybe
four or five people. I guess I expected a much smaller
contraption than the big, metal basket capable of carrying
perhaps as many as 16 or more of us early morning adventurers,
plus the pilot. This balloon belonged to Magic
Horizon Balloons, and there were numerous personnel around working to
inflate it this crisp morning. We could also see a few
other balloons nearby that presumably belonged to other small
companies.
While the final preparations were being made for take off,
we were given more precise safety instructions. Most of this
orientation was concerned with landing, and the main idea was,
just prior
to landing, to face away from the direction of flight, grab
hold of small straps attached to the inside of the basket, and
squat.
Soon, were were boarding the balloon's basket, which
consisted of several compartmentalized units. Our small group
was able to take up one of these, though it was probably only
meant for four people. There were no doorways, so many people
had to be lifted into the basket by the support personnel,
though I managed a bit more dignified entrance on my own. Once
again, we were given safety instructions, and this time
practiced our landing positions.
As
several other balloons were already soaring above us, we soon
took to the sky ourselves. I found that there was no reason to
be concerned for the cold morning air, as the heat from the
flame that controlled the balloons altitude was quite warm, and
in fact sometimes a little hot. As the balloon took off, there
was none of the stomach wrenching effect one feels in a
fast elevator. All was smooth, with the only noise coming from
the roar of the flame and some chatter from my fellow
passengers. There were, of course, some oohs and aahs from
them as we gained a little height.
Though
we rose with the dawn, the sun itself had not yet broken the
horizon, and so it was still just a bit dark below, light
enough to see, but really too dark for my digital camera at
first. Actually we were told that one is not allowed to take
pictures because of nearby military or security posts, but
this was said with a wink of the eye, and soon everyone was
clicking away, dark or not.
In the distance, we could see other balloons, sometimes
ascending, sometimes descending, and our balloon reached a
moderate elevation before once again descending. I should have
asked, but
I remain unsure whether this was to catch currents of air, or
to give us various views of the monuments. In fact, at one
point we got so low that I presumed that we would soon land,
but afterwards we shot back up reaching our maximum altitude
of 4,000 feet. In all, we spent about an hour and a half in the
air, bobbing up and down in the still air above a magnificent vista
of mountains, ancient monuments and modern village
houses.
I had visited the West Bank of
Luxor (ancient Thebes) on
many occasions, but had never witnessed the great Temples of a
Million Years, and other monuments from above. Its a nice
view, and on this occasion, with almost no wind to carry us
away, we remained during most of the
flight just above these monuments, though our position and
elevation varied considerably.
There below, in the morning light that was yet too soft for
my camera, was the Temple of
Hatshepsut, and there, the
Ramesseum. We passed over all of the ruins, some more visible
than others, but then there was also the mountains to see, the
villages and the course of the Nile, particularly as we rose
up to our highest elevation. Many of our group thought that,
as we looked down on the children waving at us from villages,
that the rural houses were particularly interesting, with
their open rooms on the second story, and sometimes the first.
Doubtless, many of these are not so very different than those
of ancient times, built to hold both family and
livestock.
During the flight, I never felt any safety concerns, even
at 4,000 feet, other than wondering why the flame didn't burn
a hole through the top of the balloon. Oh well, I figured
that was a problem worked out long ago in ballooning, and I
knew that our pilot had been up thousands of times
without suffering such a fate.
As we made our final descent, I guess I was a little
concerned, but that was soon put to rest. We were soon
floating over a sea of sugar cane, and I it seemed as though
we would touch down in the middle of it, though we were not
moving fast enough for me to worry much about that. However,
abruptly the sugar cane gave way to a turn row and even as we
passed over the last stalks, the ground crew was there
grabbing ropes hung from the basket. We all followed the
safety procedures so redundantly set out before the flight,
but there was never a bounce, as the balloon was literally
pulled from the sky by the waiting Egyptians.
Soon, the basket was de-boarded in much the same way it had
been boarded in the first place, with many of the people being
helped over the side by the ground crew, but that was not the
end of this particular adventure. There had to be a small
ceremony as well, to commemorate our flight, and with some
drummers hammering out a beat, everyone danced while the
balloon crew sang
a rhythmic chant. We were then given T-shirts and a
certificate testifying to our ascent above the ruins of the West Bank.
As we rode back on the bus to catch our boat
to Crocodile Island, I think everyone felt that they had just
made a memory, a special experience that would remain in their
minds as other vacations come and go. Even though I frequently
travel to Egypt, it must certainly be ranked as one of the
high points of any of my visits. There was even regret that
others in our group had not joined us for this Egyptian
adventure in the skies of ancient Thebes. High fives to
Magic Horizon Balloons
for a great time and a very successful
flight.
For information, Contact:
Magic
Horizon Balloons
Badr Street - Television Street, Luxor
Phone 095-365060/0127845190
Fax 095-386651
Email: booking@magic-horizon.com
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