
Al-Deir (El-Deir, also known as Deir el-Ganayim) is really a series of sites,
though the main one consists of a Roman fortress tucked into a picturesque
setting about twenty kilometers northeast of Qasr Kharga in the
Kharga Oasis. It is also very
accessible and the fortress is one of the most impressive in the North Kharga.
It sits at the end of a once paved road just north of Gebel Umm al-Ghanayim at
the terminus of the Darb al-Deir, a major caravan trail from the Nile Valley.
The imposing Diocletian fortress, as most fortresses were, is made of
mudbrick, but while such structures along the Nile and in the Delta are almost
nonexistent due to deterioration, here in the desert they are better preserved.
The building is square, measuring 73 by 73 meters and has
twelve towers, one
round one at each corner and two semicircular ones within each 3.6 meter thick mudbrick wall. Of the walls, the southern one is the best preserved. Entrances
to the fortress were located on the northern, eastern and western walls.
The towers are connected by a gallery atop the ten meter tall walls,
accessible by way of staircases inside the fortress. The interior of the
fortress, where a well once provided water, is almost totally gutted except for
rooms along the southern wall. However, here in room after room on their
plastered walls is some wonderful graffiti, most written by soldiers who were
stationed in the
Western Desert,
and not just during the Roman Period but long afterwards. They include drawings
of Turkish soldiers with tarbushes, airplanes
and tank from British regiments,
and many names in Arabic, Coptic, Turkish and English.
The deep water well, located in the central courtyard of the fortress
apparently provided considerable water, and there was a system of conduits that
are no small Roman engineering marvel in themselves. The water was channeled
through three tunnels to the outbuildings and fields. Trenches were dug and then
large flat slabs of stone were placed over the trenches before everything was
covered up again. This allowed for free-flowing water. A system was also put in
place to block the entrance to the tunnels in the well so that the water level
would rise enough for use within the fortress. Then, to allow the water to reach
the outlying areas, the tunnels were simply unblocked. This existence of these
water systems were unknown until they were unearthed by accident at the
beginning of the 1900s.
After the decline of the Romans the site was probably used as a
Christian
monastery, which would account for the name, al-Deir, which means
"monastery". There are also the remains of a church to the west of the fortress,
as well as a necropolis. Evidence suggests that the church was used during World
War I by the British when they were defending the oasis from the Sanusi of
Libya. There are additional buildings from a modern British settlement nearby
which was abandoned when the well in the courtyard of the fortress finally went
dry in modern times.
A town that was once connected with the temple stands a kilometer north
between the fortress and the ancient church. Also unexcavated, it is though that
this site was occupied from the
Ptolemaic Period or earlier through to the 4th century AD. Two buildings are
still standing.
One, toward the escarpment and about 1.5 kilometers north of the fortress, is
a small, mudbrick temple which was later used as a church. It is thought to date
to the 2nd or 3rd century AD. It consists of an antechamber with benches along
its sides, a hypostyle hall, an offering chamber and a vaulted sanctuary. It
contains some Coptic, Greek and Arabic graffiti in the sanctuary.
The purpose of
the second building is so far unidentified. A great number of pottery shards
litter the ground, but the remains of any actual dwellings heave yet o be
unearthed.
Although never excavated, the fortress is thought to date from the reign of
Diocletian at the end of the 3rd century AD. However, assessments for the
consolidation and restoration of the remains are currently being undertaken by a
French team. Their work in 1997 recognized the existence of three areas of
burials to the south, north and east of the fortress. During excavations of the
southern sector in 1998, eight plundered tombs were unearthed and wooden
sarcophagi, human remains and traditional funerary equipment was found.
Afterwards, excavations in the northern sector have revealed 35 tombs and 19
white limestone sarcophagi, some containing well-preserved mummified bodies
buried in an Osiris
posture with arms crossed over the chest. These burials are believed to date to
the 3rd and 5th century AD. During the team's 2002 excavation season, several
re-used tombs were found to contain the bodies of a large quantity of mummified
dogs. They probably represent votive offerings to the canine deities
Wepwawet or
Anubis who were
worshipped in the Aysut to
Abydos regions
from where desert tracks led out to the Oasis.
Resources:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference Number |
|
Atlas of Ancient Egypt |
Baines, John; Malek, Jaromir |
1980 |
Les Livres De France |
None Stated |
|
Complete Gods and Goddesses of Ancient Egypt, The |
Wilkinson, Richard H. |
2003 |
Thames & Hudson, LTD |
ISBN 0-500-05120-8 |
|
Complete Temples of Ancient Egypt, The |
Wilkinson, Richard H. |
2000 |
Thames and Hudson, Ltd |
ISBN 0-500-05100-3 |
|
Encyclopedia of Ancient Egyptian Architecture, The |
Arnold, Dieter |
2003 |
Princeton University Press |
ISBN 0-691-11488-9 |
|
Western Desert of Egypt, The |
Vivian, Cassandra |
2000 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 527 X |