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The Resort Village of El Gouna, an upscale community on Egypt's Mainland Red Sea Coast
The mainland Egyptian coastline along the Gulf of Suez and the Red Sea is one
continuous stretch of mostly beaches, but very different in many ways.
Obviously, there are differences in the water within a confined gulf as opposed
to the open Red Sea, but there are considerable differences in the facilities
and some difference in the types of activities available. We can actually define
three of the most popular regions as Ain Sukhna at the northern end of the Gulf
of Suez, the Region around Hurghada and
El-Gouna just about where the Gulf of
Suez opens up into the Red Sea, and Marsa
Alam, which is becoming very popular
considerably south of Hurghada, but still some distance from the southern
Egyptian border. However, all sorts of resorts, camps and other facilities, some
of which are very important, can be found all along the coast, including such
places as Safaga and Quseir.
What is making the upper Red Sea coast so popular is its
proximity to Greater Cairo,
one of the largest, if not the largest, cities in the world.
The region of coastline referred to as Ain Sukhna
is, simply put, the closest beach area to this city, and a new
highway will soon make it even more convenient. Like the new
resorts along the north coast, many of the facilities along
the coast at Ain Sukhna are residential compounds that mostly
cater to Egyptian beach goers. Some of them do have hotels,
though even many of these are more suitable to Egyptians.
Nevertheless, this region has some specific advantages for
foreigners as well, and so we can expect to see a growing
trend of nice hotels that also cater to tourists.

A small section of the large beach at Stella di Mare
along the Ain Sukhna area
Specifically, while Ain Sukhna
is convenient for the people of Cairo,
so too is it convenient for tourists. Cairo is, for almost all
visitors to Egypt taking a classical tour, the first and last
stop on their
itinerary. Traditionally, if they wished to include a stop on
the Red Sea, that segment would be made from Luxor, usually
traveling either by bus to Hurghada,
or by air to Sharm
el-Sheikh. While the airplane ride to Sharm el-Sheikh is
not a long one, the bus trip to Hurghada takes much longer
than one to Ain Sukhna. Furthermore, there is not much to
really see in the way of antiquities around Hurghada, though
like elsewhere in Egypt, there seems to always be a few sites
that can be visited. And while classical tourists who visit
Sharm el-Sheikh frequently take in St.
Catherine's Monastery, stopping along the way at the Seven
Girls Monastery (Convent) at Wadi Firan, from Ain Sukhna,
one can just about as easily visit the newly renovated and
very famous Eastern Desert monasteries of St.
Anthony and St.
Paul. And, of course, there is the Suez
Canal, which is only just north of Ain Sukhna and so
close, in fact, that one can frequently see the large ships
that have just come through the canal from many of the Ain
Sukhna resorts.
While most of the resorts at Ain Sukhna
attract Egyptian tourists, there are at least several that are
finding more and more favor among foreign tourists. One of our
favorite is Stella
di Mare, a large resort compound with both family vacation
units and two nice hotels, including the five star Swiss
Inn and the four star PlanHotel,
both of which are surprisingly reasonable in price. They offer
a host of activities and services, including one of the finest
spas in North Africa. This resort has traditionally attracted
a large contingency of upper class Italian tourists and will
doubtless see many other foreign tourists as it becomes better
known.
The resorts that begin at Ain Sukhna
today stretch along the beach all the way to Zafarana,
which is a small village most notable as a staging point for
visiting the monasteries of the Eastern Desert. After Zafarana,
there is not much until one reaches the region around Hurghada.
The region around Hurghada
(known in Egypt as Ghardaga), including the more upscale village of
El-Gouna just to the north, and the fine
resorts in the resort compound of
Soma Bay to the south, is by far the most popular tourist beach area along
Egypt's mainland coast, particularly among foreign
tourists. Unlike many of the compound resorts along all of Egypt's coasts,
Hurghada is a true, though small city with all the trappings
and entertainment facilities one might expect of a beach
resort anywhere in the world. More than 35,000 people now live
in Hurghada, and there are over 100 resorts and hotels, making
it Egypt's most popular resort town. Specifically, one need
not be limited to only the entertainment provided by a
specific resort. Within Hurghada, there are any number of bars
and restaurants, shops, including small malls and other
tourist facilities. It also clearly has a small boat
manufacturing industry.
There are really several types of tourist accommodations at
Hurghada, each
of which appeal to different types of tourists. In the town
itself are hotels, some with and some without beachfronts,
which have a tendency to attract more young people and those
on limited budgets. During specific times of the year, there
are many Eastern Europeans that fill up these hotels, along
with some of the other resorts at Hurghada. These downtown
hotels are frequently less expensive than the outlying resort,
are of course convenient to the entertainment district, but
offer somewhat less exclusive beaches.
Like
elsewhere, there are also resort compounds at Hurghada
that are more exclusive and which offer complete facilities
including bars, restaurants, entertainment and all sorts of
activities. Many of these provide all inclusive beach
vacations, where meals, bars and the various activities are
included in the price of the hotel room. And while Hurghada
has traditionally been considered the more affordable beach
area (as opposed to Sharm
el-Sheikh), today, one can find a range of resort
compounds from very affordable to very exclusive. One problem
is that many of these types of resorts are somewhat isolated
from the city itself. A taxi or other transportation is
required for a trip into town.
Like Sharm el-Sheikh,
Hurghada is a
main destination of European charters, though traditionally it
has tended to attract a somewhat younger, as well as less
affluent beach goer. Hence, one should realize that many of
the compounds will predominately be filled with those of a
specific nationality.
Of course, as one of the primary beach destinations for
foreign vacationers, there are hardly any activities found
elsewhere in the world's beach resorts that cannot be found at
Hurghada, with
the possible exception of surfing. Along with jet skiing,
skiing, parasailing, windsurfing, snorkeling, sailing and
swimming, it is also one of the main scuba diving hubs for the
Red Sea.
To the north of Hurghada,
El-Gouna is
very different. It must be one of the most orderly and planned
beach towns in Egypt, and while it offers a range of hotel
accommodations, it is mostly considered to be very upscale. As
a planned resort village, most of the hotels are convenient to
the downtown region, where there are independent bars and restaurants.
And like Hurghada, there is also every imaginable beach
activity, but there is also a fine golf course.
In reality, El-Gouna
is not unlike a beach resort compound, only with many more
hotels and a wide range of facilities. It is a very secure
area which is also popular among upper class Egyptians. In
fact, it is considered a playground for Egypt's rich and
famous, and often hosts concerts and sporting events. Like
other resort compounds, there are also privately owned villas.
Unlike many other resort compounds, there is a complete
infrastructure, including an airport, a marina, a good
hospital and even a fine school. They even have their own TV
and radio station. All said, El-Gouna is one of Egypt's
classiest beach destinations.
South of Hurghada
is a resort strip with hotels and resorts crammed along a
stretch of beach for at least 20 kilometers. About halfway
between Hurghada and Safaga
is a small, low key beach resort used mainly by divers, though
those with their own tent can also camp. This is Sharm al-Naga,
and just a bit further south is Soma Bay which, in recent
years, has probably become known for its golf course more than
its fine beaches. It is a common getaway for Cairo's
dedicated golfers, but at the same time, the Sheraton here has
to be one of that chain's most beautiful hotels in Egypt. Soma
Bay is really one of Egypt's early beach resort compounds,
which includes private villas along with a new Hyatt hotel.
Other hotels include the Robinson and as of now, a La
Residence, though other hotels are expected to be built here.
Like at Stella
di Mare further up the coast, there is also a Thalasso Spa
here as well. Soma Bay offers all the normal activities,
including scuba diving, and also has its own small
marina.
Significantly, both El-Gouna
and Soma Bay are close enough to Hurghada
to allow for a quick trip into town for some shopping and
additional entertainment opportunities in the evening. In many
ways, these areas make up a specific zone along the mainland
coast of Egypt's Red Sea, as one the countries premier beach
fronts.
From this area south along the coast there are a number of
"camps", usually with only rudimentary
accommodations, which sometimes offer quaint beach vacations
or are at times dedicated to scuba divers, mixed in with some
very specific larger resorts areas, the most notable of which
is Marsa Alam.
The first vacation destination of any size south of Soma Bay
is Safaga,
which is more of a port than anything else, though it attracts
a substantial number of scuba divers. Safaga does have some
nice accommodations, though not particularly world class,
including one of the few Holiday Inns in Egypt. While many of
the visitors to Safaga are mostly interested in scuba diving,
it is an excellent region for windsurfing and was, in fact,
the venue for the 1993 World Windsurfing Championships.
South of Safaga,
the next notable city is Al-Quseir,
which has become more and more of a beach resort village,
mostly specializing in scuba diving, but at the same time, has
considerable historic significance. Located about 140
kilometers south of Hurghada,
during ancient times it was known as "White Harbor",
and it was from here that Queen
Hatshepsut's expeditions to Punt
set out for the Red Sea segment of their journey. The old port
town of Myos Hormos, a Ptolemaic and Roman port engaged in
trade with India is also here, about eight miles north
adjacent to the Movenpick Hotel.
Al-Quseir,
perhaps because of it's history and the fact that it is not a
modern invention of tourism, has a certain charm that is not
present in many of Egypt's other Red Sea towns. It is
dominated by an Ottoman fortress and old coral-block buildings
with wooden balconies that surround the waterfront in the
center of town. Here, the beaches are a bit less crowded than
they are further north.
Again, while one may find some small tourist camps south of
Al-Quseir,
mostly completely dedicated to scuba diving, the next major
tourist destination on the mainland Red Sea, and by far the
most thriving one south of Hurghada,
is Marsa Alam.
Many of Egypt's Red Sea Coast vacations areas were only small
fishing villages only a few years ago, and though Marsa Alam
remained only a quaint tourist destination, only very recently
it has taken off as an exceptional destination, probably due
to its new airport.
Marsa
Alam does have an ancient history. During the Greco-Roman
Period, Ptolemy
II built a road leading from Edfu
to this village, which followed a more ancient route. Inland
gold and emerald mines were exploited during Egypt's distant
past.
Today, the airport is receiving chartered flights directly
from Europe, and there are also an increasing number of divers
who come here to avoid the crowds further north. This has all
resulted in a number of tourist resorts being built both to
the north and south of the village. Isolated though it may be
on Egypt's southern coastline, its warm climate, particularly
during the winter months, will likely see this area flourish
in future years.
Still further south is Shams Alam, which in recent years
has been the southernmost tourist outpost along the Red Sea.
This is really a very small village, with rudimentary but very
acceptable accommodations and a nice beach. It is almost
exclusively the domain of scuba divers looking to visit some
of Egypt's less-frequented southern reefs.
While Egypt's mainland Red Sea coast extends further south,
not only are there no real accommodations, a special permit is
needed to visit these areas mostly because of military
installations.
So to a large extent, the eastern mainland coast of Egypt
can be broken down into three parts. These include the upper
region within the the Gulf of Suez, mostly around Ain Sukhna,
which is currently dominated by domestic tourists, but a
growing number of foreign tourists, the main beach region
around Hurghada,
and the southern region which also caters to foreign tourists,
but where the resorts are largely dominated by scuba diving
enthusiasts.
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