The
Fayoum,
sometimes referred to as the Fayoum Oasis, even though it is
not a true Oasis, is situated not too far south of Cairo.
It takes its name from the Coptic
word, Phiom or Payomj, meaning lake or sea. During very
ancient times, it was actually a sea, and today is well known
for the finds of great, ancient whales.
During prehistory, more people lived in the Fayoum
than in the Nile Valley. The land here was lush, and there was
an abundance of water. Between 7200 and 6000 BC, a time known
as the Qarunian period, Southwest Asians, whom we call Epi-Paleolithic
Qarunians, migrated to the area and settled it, making hunting
and fishing their main occupations. At the time, plants and
animals were just beginning to be domesticated. All of this
took place around a much larger lake than is there now.
Later, during Neolithic times (5500 to 4000 BC), two
distinct groups of people existed around the lake shores.
These were the early Neolithic Fayumian and Late Neolithic
Moerian. It was during this period that the first agricultural
communities sprang forth. These people dined on gazelle,
hartebeests or catfish, cooked in rough faced bowls or cooking
pots, and served their friends and family on red polished
rectangular earthenware dishes.
However, around 4000 BC, the climate of the Fayoum
began to dry up, and over a period of many years, the people
left their drought stricken homes and migrated closer to the
Nile. By about 3500 BC, some were living east of the Nile in
what is now Maadi-Digla, a modern suburb south
of Cairo. From their
ancient sites, we know that they had grain silos, made pottery
and used sickles. Once the Nile Valley became dominant, the
Fayoum was all but abandoned, because life along the river was
much easier. The Fayoum became a hunting and fishing paradise,
as well as a place to be mined for its salts, limestone and
chert.
The Fayoum Oasis has come in and out of favor with tourists to
Egypt over the years. Only a few years ago, it remained a
hunter's paradise but hunting also has its
more ancient legends in the Fayoum. It was here, Diodorus
tells us, that King Menes, the uniter of Upper and Lower
Egypt, went on a hunting trip and almost lost his life when
his own dogs attacked him near the lake. However, this legend
records that his life was saved by a crocodile which carried
him across the water to safety. As a reward, he declared the
lake a sanctuary for crocodiles and founded the city of Shedet,
known to the Greeks as Crocodilopolis but today called Kiman
Faris. His city became the cult center of the crocodile god
Sobek, Though the Fayoum was identified with Nun, the primeval
ocean, the origin of all life in ancient mythology, Sobek
remained the chief deity of the region throughout dynastic and
Greek times and into the Roman
era. All the known temples were
dedicated, or at least co-dedicated, to one or another of his
aspects. A sacred crocodile kept at the main temple at
Crocodilopolis was seen and described by both Herodotus and
Strabo.
Nevertheless, during the early dynastic times, the Fayoum
remained mostly undeveloped, much of it probably marsh and
swamp, though it was a favored hunting ground for the Egyptian
elite. During the Old
Kingdom, it was known as Ta-she, or She-resy (the Southern
Lake).
Then in the 12th
Dynasty, numerous Egyptian kings
brought new life to the area. They took up residence at Lisht,
nearby in the Nile Valley. It was probably the founder of this
dynasty, Amenemhat
I, who, during the first half of the 20th
century BC, flooded the Fayoum
to create the famous Lake
Moeris, which was described 1,500 years later by Herodotus.
He also built his pyramid
at Lisht. His successor, Senusret
I, erected an obelisk of Abgig, and later,
the Lahun pyramid was built for
Senusret
II. Amenemhat
III,
who had a long, peaceful reign towards the end of the 19th
century BC, added a number of monuments to the region,
including the colossi of Biahmu (al Sanam), the temples at
Madinat Madi and Kiman Faris, and at Hawara he built the
famous Labyrinth and his own
pyramid, the only one to be built
away from the Nile Valley. His successor, Amenemhat
IV, also
worked at the temple of Madinat Madi.
However, after these Middle Kingdom
kings, interest dropped
off once again until the Ptolemies and their Greek rule (after
the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BC). Really, very
little is known about the Fayoum
during Egypt's New
Kingdom.
We actually have considerable information about the Fayoum
during Greek times because of the many
hundreds of papyri that were discovered throughout the area
during the past century. Mummies
were wrapped in old papyrus scrolls, so old cemeteries were
and continue to be excellent libraries of information about
the Fayoum.
These documents are diverse, revealing census records,
household accounts, fictional stories and details about the
army. So extensive are they that we not only know the names of
towns, but also their districts and street names. We know that
men married at around eighteen to twenty years of age, and
women around fifteen. We also know that the Greeks practiced
infanticide, especially if the child was female. Under Greek
rule, there were 114 villages in the Fayoum,
with sixty-six of them taking Greek names. There was
considerable rivalry between these villages, sometimes
resulting in open hostility. They stole crops, soil and water
rights from each other.
We also know that there was a thriving tourist trade even
then, when pilgrims would come to feed the sacred crocodiles
with fried fish and honey cakes.
The
first Greek ruler, Ptolemy I began
a process of improving the region by draining a part of Lake Moeris, and thus
reclaiming about 1,200 square kilometers of excellent land.
His work was continued by his son, Ptolemy II Philadelphus,
who gave parcels of the new and very fertile land to his Greek
and Macedonian veterans, which provided the region with a
fresh profusion of humanity. With these efforts, the Fayoum
blossomed into probably the richest and most productive area
of the country. These new settlers made the Fayoum into the
"Garden of Egypt" with new innovations such as the
water propelled saqya, or water wheel, now a well known
feature of the region.
During the Ptolemaic
Period, settlers in the Fayoum
were
mostly Greeks and Macedonians, but there were also groups of
Jews, Persians, Arabs, Syrians, Thracians and Samaritans.
Here, an interesting process took place for, unlike the
Greeks in Alexandria who remained mostly a homogeneous
community for many years, the Greeks of the Fayoum
intermarried with native Egyptians, as did the other
nationalities. Hence, the Fayoum became a great melting pot in
which racial purity did not long survive.
Ptolemy II
named one of the new settlements on the eastern
fringe Philadelphia, meaning "brotherly love", in
reference to the sister that he married, Arsinoe. In fact, he
also renamed the whole province in her honor, calling it the
Arsinoite nome. Prior to this, the Greeks had simply known it
as "the Marsh". Now, it was divided into a number of
districts (merides), which included Heracleides in the north,
Themistos in the west and Polemon in the south. Upon her death, Arsinoe was deified by the
Fayoum populous, and there was a great Arsinoeia festival held
annually in the Fayoum during the month of Misra
(August).
Though the Fayoum
probably began to decline during the late
Greek Period and even as early as the reign of Ptolemy II, after the fall of
Cleopatra to
Augustus in 30
BC, the prosperity continued for some time. What the Romans
found in the Fayoum was a Hellenized landowner gentry in the
towns, while the Egyptians worked and lived in the more rural
areas. They also found clogged canals and broken dikes, and
Augustus ordered the Roman army into the Fayoum to clean and
repair the water system.
But as that great
empire became unstable and began to disintegrate, so too did
the Fayoum. Under a corrupt local government and
mismanagement, along with an atmosphere of general economic
depression, the successful Ptolemaic irrigation system once
again gradually fell into disrepair, and much good land was lost,
some forever, to the desert. Between the 3rd and 5th centuries
AD, the towns of Karanis, Bacchias, Philadelphia, Tebtunis and
Dionysias declined and were eventually abandoned.
In addition, while the income of the people in the Fayoum
was relatively high, the average poll tax was twice that of
any other place in Egypt. Finally, Rome exacted too much from
the Fayoum, and the population, which was always rebellious,
began to decline. The region was also hit hard by
plague.
In 395 AD, the Roman Empire was partitioned, and Egypt came
under the rule of the eastern emperor, ruling from Byzantium.
Christianity had become the official religion of the
empire, and in the Fayoum
their was once as many as thirty-five monasteries. But the Egyptian church split with the Byzantine in 451 due to
a doctrinal issue. For much of Egypt, the Byzantine rule was
not popular, and when the Arabs came in
640, they were
generally welcomed. By then, many Egyptians believed that the
new regime could not be more repressive than the old.
However, the Fayoum
held out against the Arab armies, and
this was one of the last provinces of the country to fall to
the new rulers of Egypt. The Fayoum was defended by a
Byzantine garrison and a native Egyptian force led by John of
Maros, who was stationed at Lahun. When the Arabs threatened
Bahnasa (Oxyrhynchus), south of Beni Suef, John met them and
at first managed to repulse them. However, the Arabs soon
returned with reinforcements and took the town. John and his
men fled further south to Asyut, but there they
were finally
routed and killed. Nevertheless, a man named Theodorus
continued to use the Fayoum as a base for unsuccessful sorties
against Bahnasa.
Now, the main Byzantine forces retired to the fortress of
Babylon (now in Old
Cairo) leaving much of the remainder of
Egypt in Arab hands. During April of 641, Babylon also fell,
and this marked the end of the resistance from the Fayoum
as
well. Upon hearing the news of the fall of Babylon,
Domentianus, who was the prefect of the Fayoum, fled with his
troops during the night, leaving only a token garrison behind.
At the time, Theodorus was away in Middle Egypt, and the Arabs
easily took the Fayoum, killing the few troops left behind.
Interestingly however, under the Arabs, their first governor
of the Fayoum was a Coptic
Christian named Philoxenos.
Yet, despite the decline of the Fayoum
during Roman times,
it remained famed at the beginning of the Early Islamic Period
as a very rich province. Even then, legend credits the Fayoum
with some 360 villages, and it was said that each of these
could provide the whole of Egypt with food for one day.
Unfortunately though, the region continued its downward
course.
When the Fatimid army invaded Egypt, they reached the Fayoum
in 914, invading and devastating it, before finally
being driven out of the country. The Fatimids made a second
attempt to invade Egypt five years later when they pushed into
Upper Egypt as far as al-Ashmunein
(hermopolis), south of al-Minya. This
time, they sacked Alexandria, as well as the Fayoum. However,
in the Fayoum, the invaders succumbed to famine and plague,
and were consequently unable to gain the upper hand in a
crucial battle at Giza. Though some forty-nine years later
they would return and finally take the country, the Fatimids
were again sent packing back home in the spring of 920.
The Fayoum continued to decline, however. At the end of the
10th century, the annual fiscal return of the Fayoum was
620,000 dinars, but by the reign of Salah
al-Din, during the
latter half of the 12 century, this figure had dropped to a
mere 145,162 dinars. Yet, Salah al-Din, known to Europeans as
Saladin, granted land in the Fayoum to some of his Kurdish and
Turkish officers, and even owned land in the province himself.
In 1245, Abu 'Uthman al-Nabulsi, a Syrian Amir who was then
governor of the Fayoum, wrote a book about the province which
focused on its famous irrigation system. He found it to be so
neglected that it was hardly functioning at all. The Bahr
Munha canal, better known now as Bahr Yusuf, was so silted up
that water only flowed through it during the Nile
Flood, a
period lasting about four months of the year, and the smaller
canals were in no better state. He discovered that nothing had
been spent on canal maintenance during the previous hundred
years. He did set about making improvements during his
governorship by cutting new channels and clearing old ones.
Shortly after his brief governorship, there were also two
great hydrological works commissioned, including the now
ruined wall of Shidmoh, and a new regulator at Lahun, which
was still in use until the middle of the 20th century.
However, the Fayoum
continued its decline, particularly
during the Ottoman
Period. They controlled Egypt for over 200
years, between 1517 and 1798. During this time, the Fayoum was
governed by a qadi sent once a year from Istanbul. During the
remainder of the year, the qadi's deputy held a divan twice a
week, attended by sixty Arab Sheikhs. In 1634, the annual
revenue of the Fayoum is reported to have dropped to a mere
56,000 dinars. The region had many problems during this
period, partly due to its remote location, which was difficult
to access particularly during the flood season. It was also
especially vulnerable to Bedouin and Berber attacks, a problem
that was not completely brought under control until the middle
of the 19th century. But another reason for the regions
continued decline was the discovery of the Cape route to
India, which seriously affected the Egyptian economy as a
whole.
Then, in 1798, the French army of Napoleon invaded Egypt
and defeated the two Mamluk
Period Beys, Murad and Ibrahim, who then
controlled Egypt. This was the famous Battle of the Pyramids,
and afterwards Ibrahim Bey fled to Syria. However, Murad Bey
retreated only as far as Middle Egypt, where a force of 5,000
men under General Louis Charles Antoine Desaix de Veygoux was
sent to rout him. The French, however, never really succeeded
in doing so.
The two armies battled all around Middle Egypt and the Fayoum. First, Desaix tried to surprise Murad's camp at
Bahnasa, but Murad was forewarned by local farmers and managed
to slip away. Desaix pursued Murad to Beni Suef, where after
another battle Murad once again escaped. Afterwards, they
fought the next battle at Sidmant, just a little southwest of
Lahun, but this confrontation was once again indecisive.
Desaix camped at Lahun and then at Fayoum
Town, where he was
held up for a month by an epidemic of conjunctivitis. Yet,
when Murad attacked the debilitated Garrison in the Fayoum on
November 8th, he was repulsed. Desaix regrouped at Beni Suef
and followed Murad into Upper Egypt, and finally Murad
retreated to Nubia, leaving Desaix in control of Upper
Egypt.
Then, in 1799, Murad reappeared in the Fayoum, though by
now, Bonaparte had retired from Egypt, leaving his deputy,
Kleber, to negotiate a French evacuation. Part of the pressure
on Kleber was Murad's activities in and around the Fayoum. In
October, Desaix once again assembled two camel columns to
march on Murad in the Fayoum. They met at Sidmant, but Murad
took the offensive, was repelled and pursued, but once again
managed to escape.
In fact, peace was eventually made between Murad and the
French. He was appointed governor of Upper Egypt for
the Republic of France on May 30, 1800. However, it was a
short governorship, for he died of the plague in Upper Egypt
on April 22, 1801.
When the French abandoned Egypt in 1801, a power struggle
was created between the Turks and the Mamluks. Between these
two powers was a brilliant Albanian coffee dealer from
Macedonian named Muhammad Ali. Once again, the Fayoum
would
suffer. In September 1806, Fayoum town was taken and sacked by
the Mamluk Yasin Bey, and a large part of its population was
massacred for its support of Muhammad Ali. Yasin managed to
hold on to the Fayoum for almost four years, until Muhammad
retook it in 1810. That following year, Muhammad consolidated
his power with the famous massacre of the Mamluks at the Cairo
Citadel.
Muhammad Ali, often known as the father of modern Egypt,
revived the failing economy of the country with agricultural
reforms, promoting cotton as a cash crop in areas such as the Fayoum.
He also managed to largely subdue the nomadic tribes
who raided the Fayoum, first by force, but when that did not
work, by political appointments and large land grants. This
approach was particularly successful in the Fayoum, where the
problem had been most serious.
In the more modern era, transport and communications
improved in the Fayoum
with the railway system that connected
it to the Nile Valley in 1874, and the network of light (small
gauge) railways that ran throughout the province. Around the
turn of the 20th century, the British built good roads and
revised the irrigation system, reclaiming some land for
agriculture. Finally, the Fayoum began to recover from the
slump that had begun during Roman times.
Around the second decade of the 20th century, the
British established camps within and around the perimeter
of the Fayoum,
including outposts manned by the infantry o protect it against
the Sanusi, a threat that never materialized, at least in the
Fayoum.
Since the 1950s and Egypt's final independence from
colonialism, land reclamation, the establishment of
cooperatives and the rural electrification program, among
other projects, have led the way towards a revival of the
prosperity of the Fayoum. Today,
it is poised to also gain new tourism trade as more and more
visitors seek out this ancient breadbasket of Egypt.
Resources:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference Number |
|
2000 Years of Coptic Christianity |
Meinardus, Otto F. A. |
1999 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 5113 |
|
Atlas of Ancient Egypt |
Baines, John; Malek, Jaromir |
1980 |
Les Livres De France |
None Stated |
|
Christian Egypt: Coptic Art and Monuments Through Two Millennia |
Capuani, Massimo |
1999 |
Liturgical Press, The |
ISBN 0-8146-2406-5 |
|
Complete Temples of Ancient Egypt, The |
Wilkinson, Richard H. |
2000 |
Thames and Hudson, Ltd |
ISBN 0-500-05100-3 |
|
Dictionary of Ancient Egypt, The |
Shaw, Ian; Nicholson, Paul |
1995 |
Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers |
ISBN 0-8109-3225-3 |
|
The Fayoum History and Guide |
R. Neil Hewison |
2001 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 671 3 |
|
Oxford Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt, The |
Redford, Donald B. (Editor) |
2001 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 581 4 |
|
Oxford History of Ancient Egypt, The |
Shaw, Ian |
2000 |
Oxford University Press |
ISBN 0-19-815034-2 |
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