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A Khanqah
was a sort of monastery or lodge for the Sufis, who espoused
in the mystic, esoteric approach to the Muslim religion and
for which seclusion and asceticism played an important role. The Khanqah and Mausoleum of Sultan Faraj Ibn Barquq
(1382-1399 AD) was built by, Sultan al-Nasir Faraj, in order to
fulfill his father's desire to be
buried near the tombs of the Sufis in Cairo's Northern cemetery. This complex
was begun in 1400 and completed in 1411 AD near the sufis' tombs and the mausoleum
of Anas (1382), who was the father of Sultan Barquq. Sultan Barquq was the
first of the Circassian or Burgi
Mamluks to
be buried in the desert next to the tombs of the venerated
Sufi Shaykhs. Today this tomb is
one of the major monuments of Cairo as well as one of the three outstanding
structures of the Northern Cemetery.
The northern cemetery is on the eastern, desert boundary of the old Fatimid
city of al-Qahira, and during the reign of Sultan al-Zahir Baybars, there was a
hippodrome located in this area where various chivalric sports took place. That
Sultan was a great soldier himself and, being fond of such activities,
encouraged his amirs in these contests. However, under al-Nasir Muhammad, this
hippodrome was abandoned and the amirs began to build religious and funerary
structures on its site.
It was here that Sultan al-Nasir Faraj built this khanqah, with the
intention of urbanizing the site, but before his plans could be realized, he
died. He was described by the fifteenth century historian, al-Maqrizi as
"the most tragic king of Egypt". Sultan Faraj took the throne at the
age of ten, and was only twenty-three when he was deposed and killed in
Damascus. The khanqah took so long to complete (eleven years), that during its
construction the sultan was dethroned twice and traveled to Syria seven times to
quell disturbances. His reign was really one of continual strife among the amirs
and as such was really a history of their rivalries, and one wonders how,
amongst these circumstances, he could have produced such a magnificent complex.
Originally the complex was planned as the center of a large
residential area that was to include kitchens, living areas, and subsidiary
establishments such as baths, bakeries, grain mills, a market place, rooms for
travelers and small streets. One must remember that medieval Muslim cemeteries were never solely a
place of the dead, for palaces and other residences were also built so that the
rich could visit their dead in comfort. In addition, the religious foundations
and major tombs always had residences of some nature associated with them for
the founders and their families, as well as for Sufis and students.
Though the latest inscription on
the building is 1411, according to Maqrizi, the khanqah was actually inaugurated
in 1410, when forty Sufis were appointed to it. There is no foundation deed to
the structure that we know of, so it is not clear to what extent the khanqah
also functioned as a madrasa.
With its twin
minarets, twin mammoth domes, and twin sabil-kuttabs
at either end of the long facade, this monument is a good example of the massive
Bahri style that carried into the mid-Burgi period. One can climb both minarets,
from which there is a splendid view, not only of the necropolis but of the
surrounding areas.
One of the most interesting aspects of this structure is that, unusually for
this period, there was plenty of space and no restrictions of prior development
in the area, so the architects could afford to design a very symmetrical
structure of considerable size. Hence, this freestanding building has four
interesting facades. On its southwest corner is a trilobed portal next to a
sabil-kuttab to its left, and there is another portal on its northern facade, as
well as a second sabil-kuttab on its western corner. While these portals are not
identical, both have a conch (recess with a rounded top) on stalactites and the round blazon of the
founder.
On the northern side of the complex there is an arcade that starts on the
left side of the portal and leads almost to the mausoleum of Barquq's father,
Anas, who he had brought from Circassian and provided a position in his
government. It once connected the two establishments. It is thought that this arcade may have been intended as a musalla, which
is an open prayer place for the dead. According to Islamic law, the dead are not
to be brought inside the mosque when the funeral prayers are said.

An inscription on the khanqah's arcade
Around the top of the facade is a
tiraz band and on the eastern side there are
two huge, stone domes that surmount the twin mausoleums and flank a smaller,
ribbed brick dome that stands above the prayer niche. Though not readily visible
from the street, smaller, shallow brick domes, which were more
common in Syria or Anatolia than in Egypt, also surmount the bays of the arcades. The
outside domes are the largest and earliest Mamluk stone domes in Cairo, with a diameter of
over fourteen meters. Only the wooden dome of Imam Shafi'i exceeds their size,
but just barely. A zigzag (chevron) pattern adorns their exterior and they have an unusual
transitional zone. Like the minaret of Bashtak (1336) which received a similar
treatment on the transitional zone between its square base and
the octagonal shaft, instead of being simply stepped, these
domes are carved with one step concave and the next convex
creating an undulating pattern.
Reaching skyward, the two minarets on the northwestern facade are identical.
Their lower section are in the shape of a rectangle, while the receding and
circular second story surmounts the lower story without the usual transition of
an octagonal shaft.
The plan of these minarets, which have intersecting lines carved on the middle
of their shaft, follow closely those of Baybars
al-Jashankir, together with the
northern minaret of al-Nasir
Muhammad Mosque at the Citadel.
Within, this structure takes the form of a
hypostyle mosque on stone piers.
The domed mausoleums flank a sanctuary on the eastern end. This was the first
hypostyle mosque plan to have living units attached to it. When mosques were
being replaced by a combination madrasa-mosque, or even a madrasa-khanqah-mosque
complex, at first, it was the madrasa plan that was maintained. Here, we find a
new architectural combination that more resembles a congregational mosque. While
madrasas usually adopted an extroverted four-iwan
plan with the students' cells looking out onto the streets,
khanqah architecture generally adopted an introverted scheme
to ensure the necessary seclusion for the Sufis. However, many
of the residential units of the Khanqah of Faraj have their windows
facing outward towards the desert and the adjoining
cemetery.
From the vestibule into the corridor that leads to the
courtyard, one steps over an ancient pharaonic slab. The
shafts that pierce the ceiling of this long corridor provide
both light and air circulation. Only the remains of an
ablution fountain remain in the central courtyard. On the four
corners of the courtyard are arched recesses with doors with
round arches adorned by zigzag voussoirs exactly like those of
Barquq's madrasa. The riwaqs, which have only one aisle, front
the residential
cells. The arcades have pointed arches that support
their roof composed of the small brick domes covering the bays
Stairs in the northwest corner of the courtyard lead to the
upper floors. On the way up one passes a complex of
rooms, passageways and cubicles that look down upon the roof.
In these now deserted chambers the Sufi dervishes
once studied, chanted and slept. There was also an upper floor of cells on both lateral sides, but these
no longer exist. More cells are on the northern side of the building, and there
are dependencies (baths, grain mills, etc.) on the south side.
On the the upper
story, the porch of the kuttab (over the sabil, or fountain)
near the front entrance is a
pleasant place to sit, and one can also get a feeling for the
adjoining cemetery.

Another view of the courtyard in the direction of one of the mausoleum domes
Strikingly simple, only the windows of the sanctuary are
decorated with stucco grills and colored glass, while
elsewhere there is no marble and no painted wood. The
platform at the edge of the sanctuary is a dikka,
from which the Quran was chanted. The prayer niche, flanked by
two smaller prayer niches, is of plain stone. An interesting
carving of a mosque lamp adorned the marble column to the left
of the main niche. Next to the plain mihrab,
the stone pulpit, or minbar,
carved with panels in various geometrical and floral patterns
that splendidly imitate wood carvings was added by Sultan Qaytbay in
1483. It has a portal with stalactite cresting and a carved
bulb at the top, not unlike its counterpart at Sultan
Hassan Mosque. At the upper step a lamp flanked by a pair of
candlesticks is carved behind the seat of the preacher (khatib).
The northern mausoleum is the tomb of Barquq and his son,
Faraj, along with the latter's son, while the southern
mausoleum is that of Sultan Barquq's two daughters, the ladies
Shiriz and Shakra. The body of their nurse lies in the
corner. Both chambers have entrances covered by wooden lattice
screens with geometric patterns not unlike the wooden window
screens in Barquq's Bayn al-Qasrayn complex. Upon entering
either chamber, one may be unprepared for the soaring effect
of the interior. Unlike the khanqah, the mausoleums are richly
decorated with marble dadoes. However, eye level
ornamentation, as is usual for Egyptian religious structures,
is rather plain while the upper level decorations are more
ornate, so that the viewer's attention is drawn upward,
towards heaven. The interior of the domes are
painted with red and black patterns to simulate inlaid marble,
which would have been too heavy in these domes. The domes are supported on penentives
carved with stalactites, a common feature of Mamluk period.
The use of triangular pendentive rather than squinces
led to a different device for the windows of the transitional
zone, which became standard and are found at the madrasa of
Iljay al-Yusufi. It consisted of a triple-arched window below
three bull's eyes, one over two.
References:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference
Number |
| Historical Cairo (A Walk
Through the Islamic City) |
Antonious, Jim |
1988 |
American University in Cairo
Press, The |
ISBN 977-424-497-4 |
| Islamic Monuments in Cairo,
A Practical Guide |
Paker, Richard B.; Sabin,
Robin; Williams, Caroline |
1985 |
American University in Cairo
Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 036 7 |
| Islamic Architecture in
Cairo: An Introduction |
Behrens-Abouseif, Doris |
1992 |
E. J. Brill |
ISBN 90-04-08677-3 |
| Mosque, The: History,
Architectural Development & Regional Diversity |
Frishman, Martin and Khan,
Hasan-Uddin |
1994 |
Thames and Hudson LTD |
ISBN 0-500-34133-8 |
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