While Egypt's Eastern Desert is very famous for its several
well known Monasteries, including that of Saint Anthony and
Saint Paul, Egypt's Western Oasis served both as a remote
haven for early Christians and Kharga specifically, as a place
where Christian church leaders were sometimes banished when
their views were considered to be unacceptable. Today we may
find some of Egypt's earliest Christian monuments in the
remote regions, and because of the dry climate, often in a
decent state of preservation.
The Christian Remains in the Kharga Oasis
Christianity was probably introduced to the Kharga Oasis in
the latter half of the 3rd Century or the beginning of the 4th
century.
There were a number of important, early Christian leaders
who were banished to the Kharga Oasis, especially during the
4th and 5th centuries, for a period of years. Saint Athanasius
was sent to the Oasis, but it was probably Nestorius who made
the largest impact within the local Christian community.
However, though tradition links the local Christians to
Nestorius, it is likely that it was more of an isolated
enclave of Christians that included both Orthodox and many
forms of heteordox Christians.
Left: Athanasius
The Council of Ephesus in 431 denounced Nestorius. He had built upon the teachings of Theodore of Mopsuestia (350-428), from
north of Antioch, who saw sin as a weakness instead of a disease or tainted will.
Nestorius was accused of the heresy that portrayed Christ's death on the cross as only the suffering of his human half. Likewise, Nestorius saw Mary as the
Mother of Jesus and not the the Mother of the "Son of God."
He was first exiled to a monastery near Antioch, but that did not silence his teachings. One tradition reported by
Moffett was that he was a gifted orator with a "beautiful voice and fluent phrases." He was then banished to Petra
(in Jordan) and finally to the Kharga Oasis (in Egypt). Each move took him to deeper isolation.
The
Kharga Museum
The Kharga Museum is located in Qasr Kharga. Christian
artifacts are located on the second floor of the Kharga Museum
The consist of three sections. These include Coptic textiles
on three panels dated from the seventh to the ninth centuries
and icons from the eighteen century in wood, all of which are
on loan from the Coptic Museum in Cairo. There are also
a section of Coptic Christian books.
Near of Qasr Kharga
The Church in the Temple of Hibis
Near the Necropoliis of
al-Bagawat is perhaps the best
known monument in the Kharga Oasis, the Temple of
Hibis. Built
by Darius I (about 521 BC) and added to by
Darius II, it was
later restored by Nectanebo (378-60 BC, and represents the
only Persian temple we know of in Egypt.
However, soon after it was abandoned by the pagan priests,
a Christian church was erected against the structure's north
side of the portico. This probably took place in the first
part of the 4th century. Unfortunately, its destruction
probably was at the hands of the Blemmyes who invaded Egypt
and sacked the temple in about 450 AD. At that time the
Blemmyes carried off a large number of prisoners, including
Nestorius himself. Within the temple itself, there are only
two inscriptions that specifically refer to this ancient
church.
The Necropolis of al-Bagawat
Probably the most significant Christian remains in any of
the Western Oasis are those of the Necropolis of al-Bagawat in
the Kharga Oasis, yet these ruins actually predate
Christianity and consist of both pagan and Christian temples,
chapels and burials. They date from between the 2nd and 6th
centuries. However, this is considered to be one of the
earliest and best preserved Christian cemeteries in the
world.
The ruins are situated on the slopes of Gabal al-Tayr,
about one and a half kilometers from the only known Persian
Temple in Egypt, Hibis. The necropolis covers an area of about
five hundred meters in length and two hundred meters wide. The
main entrance to al-Bagawat is at the south side. There are
some 263 chapels or shrines located in the necropolis that
have were built in eight distinguishable groups.
The Main Church
In the center of the Necropolis on the northern edge is a
church dating back to the 5th century AD. It is regarded as
one of the oldest churches in Egypt, and commands a grand view
of the necropolis. It is the largest of the structures to be
found here.
The Chapel of the Exodus
Situated behind the group of chapels located on the central
ridge in the northern part of the necropolis is the Chapel of
the Exodus. It may be considered one of the oldest Christian
chapels in the necropolis, with paintings attributable to the
first half of the fourth century. Yet, there is very little
Christian to be found here, as most of the interior is painted
with scenes from the Old Testament. It takes its name from the paintings of Moses leading the Israelites
from Egypt, Moses in the Sinai, the Egyptian King and his army, Noah's Ark, Adam and Eve, Daniel
in the lion's den, Sadrach, Mishach, and Abednego in the furnace;
the sacrifices of Abraham, Jonah in the whale, Jonah out of the whale, Rebeca at the well, Job in a chair, Job suffering,
Susanna and Jeremian at the temple, Sara in prayer, a shepherd, the martyrdom of Saint
Thekla, seven virgins, and the Garden of Eden. Only a few scenes touch
upon Christian topics.
 
Above Left: Sadrach, Mishach and Abednego in the furnace;
Right: Ankh Style Cross
The Chapel of Peace
On the western slope of the necropolis, near its entrance,
is found the Chapel of Peace. It stands alone, and is often
simply referred to as the Byzantine Tomb. Its walls are
covered in Arabic, Coptic and Greek graffiti, while the formal
decorations are of a pure, Byzantine style. Identified in Greek are the names: Adam, Eve, Abraham, Issac, Eirene, Daniel,
Dikaiosyne, Euche, Jacob, Noah, the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, and Paul
instructing Saint Thekla. The decorative
theme is very similar to those found in Rome at the catacombs
and in many early churches throughout Egypt and elsewhere.
They may probably be attributed to the 5th and 6th centuries.
One typical Egyptian scene within this chapel is a portrayal
of Saints Paul and Thecla, who seem to have been very popular
saints within this oasis.
 
Above Left: Abrahham; Right: Noah
Also within the necropolis are about five other chapels
that still have the remains of good paintings, including
themes such as Saints Paul and Thecla, the Sacrifice of
Abraham and the Phoenix.
The Monastery of Mustafa Kashif
About two kilometers west of the Necropolis of al-Bagawat
is situated the Monastery of Mustafa Kashif. It was named
after a governor of the oasis during the Mamluk
period, but the site has been occupied since at least Egypt's
Middle Kingdom. Here, a church was built, evidenced by the remains of an apse that
is still
visible. One may also see the ruins of several cells
constructed around the tomb of a hermit or local saint. Within
the cells are inscriptions that date from the 5th or 6th
century, but probably only names. The main building had as
many as five floors, and the ruins are still impressive. On
the depression floor below the monastery are several
additional ruins.
Ain Zaaf
Ain Zaaf means "Spring of Palm Fronds". It is
tucked into the base of the foothills of Gebel al-Tayr (al-Teir),
about one kilometer north of the Monastery of Mustafa Kashif.
Here is found a Christian burial chapel that is exactly the
style of chapel also found in the Bagawat cemetery. There is
also a recently excavated Christian church that the
archaeologists believe could have been the church of Bishop
Athanasius, who was banished to this Oasis. Though the church
has no roof, and the remaining walls stand less than one meter
high, it has many small rooms and there is ancient Coptic
graffiti along the northwest corner.
Gebel al-Tayr
Called the Mountain of the Birds, Gebel al-Teir is situated
about eight kilometers north of Qasr Kharga, the capital of
this oasis. It is about two kilometers north of the Bagawat
Cemetery. A visit here should not be taken without the aid of
a local guide, as the route is complicated. Here is found
graffiti and inscriptions dating to as early as prehistoric
times. However, on the western side, a path leads to the top
of the mountain through a grotto, and here, Coptic paintings,
prayers and invocations dating from he fourth, fifth and tenth
centuries may be found. These inscriptions, which include
Demotic and Greek script, were mostly left by hermits who
lived in the surrounding caves, and can be identified by a
cross.
At the top of this mountain we find the Cave of Mary,
obviously a sacred site during the Christian era. There is
considerable graffiti, including some that predate the
Christian era, but among the etchings is a painting of the
Madonna and Child, along with a prayer in alternating red and
yellow lines.
South of Qasr Kharga to Dush
Qasr al-Nesim
Known as the Fortress of the Breeze, this site is six
kilometers south of Qasr Kharga, and then another 14
kilometers off the main road, though there is little to see
here. However, archaeologists from the Egyptian Antiquities
Organization believe that it is probably a Coptic Christian
structure.
Shams al-Din
Located about 80 or so kilometers south of Qasr Kharga,
across the road from New Baris, is an ancient settlement who's
name means "Sun of the Faith. It was called "Water
of Isis" in ancient times, but today it consists of a
necropolis and a fourth century church which is one of the
oldest in Egypt. Within the vestibule is considerable Greek
graffiti also dating to the fourth century, mostly recording
the passage of ancient travelers.
Just east of Shams al-Din is Gebel Tafnis and its spring,
Ain Tafnis. This is a difficult location to reach, requiring
about a three hour climb. Southeast of the spring amid the
caves and along the northern slope of the mountain one finds a
series of graffiti in Greek, Coptic and Arabic that includes
inscriptions from the Byzantine era.
North of Qasr Kharga
Al-Deir
Al-Deir
is located about 10.4 kilometers north of Qasr Kharga. It was
built of mudbrick and sits at the end of a road just north of
Gebel Umm-al-Ghanayim. This was a fortress during roman times,
and there is considerable graffiti on its walls, including
Coptic Christian, along with Arabic, Turkish and English.
Though the fortress may have been used as a monastery, there
is a necropolis and the ruins of a church to the west of the
fortress. Around the fortress are the ruins of an ancient town
where two building still stand. The the escarpment is the
small temple that was later used as a church. Here, one finds
Coptic Greek and Arabic graffiti in the sanctuary.
Ain
Umm Dabadib
This site
is located about 40 kilometers north of Qasr Kharga on the
road to Aysut. It is an impressive site with a towering
mudbrick fortress. The ruins of a church, complete with
several arches, sits on the east side of the fortress. In
fact, most of the church was recently still standing. Here,
the apse is covered with Greek, Coptic and Arabic graffiti.
Unfortunately, the church was mostly destroyed by a local
looking for buried treasure just a short time ago.
South of Qasr Kharga to Dush
Qasr al-Nesim
Known as the Fortress of the Breeze, this site is six
kilometers south of Qasr Kharga, and then another 14
kilometers off the main road, though there is little to see
here. However, archaeologists from the Egyptian Antiquities
Organization believe that it is probably a Coptic Christian
structure.
Shams al-Din
Located about 80 or so kilometers south of Qasr Kharga,
across the road from New Baris, is an ancient settlement who's
name means "Sun of the Faith. It was called "Water
of Isis" in ancient times, but today it consists of a
necropolis and a fourth century church which is one of the
oldest in Egypt. Within the vestibule is considerable Greek
graffiti also dating to the fourth century, mostly recording
the passage of ancient travelers.
Just east of Shams al-Din is Gebel Tafnis and its spring,
Ain Tafnis. This is a difficult location to reach, requiring
about a three hour climb. Southeast of the spring amid the
caves and along the northern slope of the mountain one finds a
series of graffiti in Greek, Coptic and Arabic that includes
inscriptions from the Byzantine era.
References:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference Number |
|
2000 Years of Coptic Christianity |
Meinardus, Otto F. A. |
1999 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 5113 |
|
Atlas of Ancient Egypt |
Baines, John; Malek, Jaromir |
1980 |
Les Livres De France |
None Stated |
|
Christianizing the Roman Empire A.D. 100-400 |
MacMullen, Ramsay |
1984 |
Yale University Press |
ISBN 0-300-03642-6 |
|
Western Desert of Egypt, The |
Vivian, Cassandra |
2000 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 527 X |
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