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Flats in Luxor
Egypt Feature Story
What's a Child to Do (On Tour in Egypt), Part II
Going North and South of Cairo
by Jimmy Dunn
I took my first overnight
train ride getting from
Cairo to
Luxor. Elsewhere
in the world, I suppose that train travel is not so uncommon, but in the
Midwestern US, many kids have never even ridden a real train. My grandfather
took me from Denton, Texas to Dallas (a very short ride) on a train when I was
about seven, mainly because the line was closing down. The next ride I took,
when I was about 49, was the Cairo to Luxor overnight train. Ok, its not all
that exciting, but for a kid, or a kid at heart, who has never ridden any long
distance, it is an adventure, and not a bad way to get from Lower to Upper
Egypt.
Luxor is a major tourist town in Egypt, with many attractions. Don't over do
it with the kids, though, because there are many sites that will be redundant to
them, and it also gets very hot in Luxor.
Karnak Temple, one of, if not the
largest religious complex ever built anywhere in the world, should be visited.
In a normal tour, one will probably arrive at Luxor in a bus or minivan but for
the kids, if possible, try taking a
horse carriage or a boat down the
Nile. On
the other hand, one might wish to wait until evening to visit the
Luxor Temple.
It is well lit, and that adds something to its mystique.
Of course, there is also the Valley of the Kings and
Queens on the west bank,
along with various mortuary temples. Beware that the tombs here can be muggy, hot
and packed with tourists. Yet, a visit to one such
as that belonging to
Tuthmosis III, Egypt's most successful warrior king, can be
fun. And in the
tomb
of Khamsawet, kids will have a chance to see the bas-relief prince Khaemsawet,
the son of Ramesses III, in typical clothes and hairstyle of a young,
royal child.
However, there are also many fine non-royal tombs on the West Bank at Luxor, and some of the better ones might be more interesting to many children, because their walls depict daily, often ordinary life in ancient Egypt, including families, which are generally not depicted in royal tombs.
Younger kids will very much enjoy a different means to visit the west bank
than the typical tourist bus. For a breathtaking experience,
take a donkey ride
above Valley of the Kings.
One usually starts out on the West
Bank. The ride weaves through the sugar cane fields, on up along the crest of
the ridge above Deir El Bahri, over into the Valley of the Kings, and descends
on the
trail down by the mortuary
Temple of
Hatshepsut. The donkeys are usually a big
hit with the kids. The donkeys are kid-sized and with cushioned saddles, are
comfortable to ride. Here, we recommend Jane Akshar, whose teenage daughter
often accompanies the tour when there are kids involved. She also explains that,
"With kids on a tour, we sometimes act out, dressing up in galabeyas and some
cheap beads, and pretend to be priests and pharaohs".
Kids will also enjoy the
horse drawn carriages, known as caleches. They are
all about Luxor, and difficult (nay, impossible) to avoid, but the kids will
find a ride to be fun. However, use a
little animal sense and try to patronize a
carriage pulled by a healthy looking horse, but don't worry about tipping the
horse if asked after having tipped the driver.
For older kids of all ages, a balloon ride over the West Bank is just truly grand, but not for the real young children. However, this is something that will excite even a teenager set on not being excited, provided they can wake up early enough. The balloons depart in early morning so as to avoid the winds that often come later in the day. The view, including that of local neighborhoods where the construction of local housing is very obvious, is interesting.
Kids will also enjoy old Sobek, the crocodile. While one may go to the Zoo in
Cairo, the small one located at the
Movenpick Hotel on Crocodile Island is a bit
more intimate, housing a crocodile, a variety of birds, monkeys, camels and
donkeys and other animals. This is a great family oriented hotel where families
from Europe often come for a winter break.
A visit to McDonalds is also nice. Of course, there are McDonalds all over Egypt, but the one behind the Luxor Temple is a great place to have a happy meal and look down on the lit temple complex.
And finally, though one may take a felucca ride in Cairo or any number of other destinations, one at twilight in Luxor affords a relaxed, wonderful view of the west bank. One might even take along a picnic dinner, which most of the hotels will arrange.
Further South
Aswan was once, during ancient Egyptian times, the southern border of Egypt,
and though there are many sites to see here, the two main attractions are
probably the Temple of Philae and the
Aswan High Dam. Kids seem to like dams,
and the Aswan High Dam is one of the largest in the world, creating lake Nasser,
one of the largest man made lakes in the world. Philae is also very historical,
being the last bastion of the
ancient Egyptian religion. In fact, for a while,
the ancient Egyptian religion was practiced here right alongside
Christianity.
It is interesting for kids because one must take a boat ride to reach this
temple, which is located on an island.
Another ancient site in Aswan is the unfinished Obelisk, a huge one, that remains partially uncut from the quarry. There is also the Nubian Museum, which focuses a bit more on southern African culture.

St. Simeon Monastery is located amongst Rolling Sand Dunes
Another fun trip for kids and an interesting one for adults is the
St. Simeon
Monastery. The site itself may not be too interesting to kids, but to get there, most tours take a boat to the west bank, and then
travel by camels to the monastery. But perhaps the most fun part for the kids
are the wonderful desert dunes, which they seem to love to roll down.
Many kids will enjoy the Nubian Village. It is a very interesting cultural experience, with overtones of a more southern Africa, yet very much still a part of the Egyptian tradition. Here, tour groups often arrange a Nubian dinner, which may not always please finicky kids, but they will nevertheless be delighted by the warm hospitality and friendly, family oriented locals. And they will surely enjoy the baby crocs which often seem to be available.
After a hard days touring around Aswan, a nice break for everyone is the
Old
Cataract Hotel terrace. There, parents can sit and relax, while the kids
frolic in the gardens.
On the Nile
Nile Cruisers, often referred to as floating hotels, are a popular form of
transportation between Aswan and
Luxor. They are largely self
contained, because other than their port cities of Aswan and Luxor, there is not
much else along the way other than the ancient sites. Regrettably though, most
do not have much in the way of facilities for children. Many do have swimming
pools, but not much else to entertain a child, not even a game room. Yet, it is
a pleasant means of visiting the
various sites between Aswan and Luxor, and many
people enjoy these cruises.
Therefore if kids are coming along, make some specific inquiries about the
specific boat, and what sort of facilities they do have for children.
Up North
Alexandria is becoming more and more of a tourist destination, even though it
does not have the antiquity sites found around
Cairo,
Luxor and
Aswan.
Nevertheless, Alex, as nicknamed by the Egyptians, is very child friendly, not
surprisingly, because it is a major destination for vacationing Egyptian
families. Here, the catacombs, the
Roman Theater, and
Fort Qaytbey all seem to
interest kids.
Of course, there is also the new Library of Alexandria. It includes its own museum with artifacts from all Egyptian historical periods, as well as periodic and varied exhibits. And doubtless, kids would love to drop in on our old friend, Aymen Ibrahem, the library's senior astronomer.
There are also many sidewalk cafes, which are fun, and a stop to watch large boats being built in this ancient port city is usually a hit with children. The train to Alex is only two hours away from Cairo if one takes the turbo train, and that is enough for kids to enjoy the sights out of the window, read a book, or snooze without getting bored.
And finally, as a departing thought, get the kids a camera, even if its a cheap throw-a-way. Kids love to take pictures, and it actually makes them feel like they are more in control, and more an integral part of the family vacation.
See Also:
Last Updated: 11/04/2005