It
was not long ago that I was in Egypt, and it does not take
long for me to miss her. I arrived back from Egypt only a
couple of months ago after spending three weeks, mostly in Cairo
at the Hotel
Longchamps and unfortunately mostly working, but also
having my spirit rejuvenated. Egypt does that for me, I think,
because of its vitality and the friendliness and accommodating
Egyptian people. To me, an American, after having visited
Egypt more times than I can count, it still seems strange that
my fellow countrymen often express concern about traveling to
this lovely country, so old and yet so full of life.
I have often made comparisons between Egypt and the United
States, and for good reason. Like the States, it is a melting
pot of nationalities, where some people go to make their
fortunes or simply to live in a more secure region than many
others in the area. They hassle about the cities, making deals
and finding opportunities. At the same time, it reminds me of
a bygone era we once knew in the States, when there was not so
much crime, no street gangs, no school violence and where
people on the streets even in huge cities might be friendly
and helpful, and hardly
ever rude. Egypt is like our kindly old grandmothers, full of
experiences and understanding, and yet, frequently innocent of
the trials and tribulations of our modern world.
As a culture, they don't particularly care for our
government's wars, our intrigues and sometimes our meddling,
but they like Americans. Egyptians are like that. Rome used
Egypt as a breadbasket to feed its empire, but they like the
Italians. Napoleon invaded Egypt, but they like the French.
Britain put a stranglehold on their economy and ran the
country for awhile, but they like the English. I suppose that
it must be because so many different people have invaded
Egypt, settled there, vacationed there for over 2,000 years,
that the Egyptians simply look at individuals in a different
light than they do their respective governments. I
think, in the end, that the Egyptian people have always,
always loved their country and the land on which it was built,
and feel honored to receive foreign guests and to show them
the wonders that God provided and the ancient spectacles
created by their ancestors. They are the very same as one who
might, living along the Grand Canyon, wish to proudly show
guests their haven. Yet there is more to it than pride. I have
often thought that the Egyptian people have some extra
hospitality gene that others lack.
Egypt is safe these days. While in Egypt, I walk about
unconcerned, go places in Cairo that few tourists ever trod.
This last trip, one of my most memorable moments was when I
decided to check
out a fire. Smoke seemed to be blanketing the city, rising
from a point seemingly not very far away from where I was
staying in Zamalek. I thought this might make an interesting
story, and it did seem as though a sizable portion of Cairo
must be on fire.
Hebba, the owner of the hotel were I like to stay, told me
where she thought the fire was located and I rushed downstairs
and grabbed a common black and white taxi. The fire seemed to
be just beyond some tall buildings, but as we neared those, it
was evident that it was much further away. In fact, it was
some distance, and it took us almost an hour of driving to
finally reach it. We traveled past small goat markets, through
slums, where people made their meals on outdoor fires in
narrow, alley-like unpaved streets and into an area where
tourist police do not patrol and few, if any, vacationers ever
visit. The fire, next door to a elementary school, turned out
to be unremarkable, though it was a good opportunity to catch
the city's firemen at work. What was perhaps remarkable,
though not really to me, was the treatment I received. I was
the only foreigner around, and clearly an American. If that
was not clear enough, I certainly told people when they asked.
I had trouble getting close enough because the area was
cordoned off, but it was also clear to the Egyptians milling
about that I wanted to take some pictures.
At first, a young boy ushered me up a dark stairway in an
apartment block to the roof of a nearby building, but I could
not really see the fire from there. I offered him some money
for his assistance,
but he refused it. However, from that building I could see a
much better vantage point from the grounds of the elementary
schoolyard. There, school had let out and many of the young
students were scampering up a wall that directly overlooked
the fire. I circled around to join them but soon discovered
that, while the wall was scaleable for these young agile
children, it was not for my 52 year old frame. But I was met
by both the schoolchildren and a few of their teachers with
curiosity and no small amount of enthusiasm. One of the
teachers even opened up a nearby gym and produced an old,
rickety ladder, which I used to join the kids on the
wall.
So here I found myself, in the midst of what must be
considered the most common of Egyptians, in a neighborhood far
from any tourist areas, surrounded by dozens of people eager
to help me. Try that in New York. Unfortunately, I dare say
that, were the situation reversed and I were an Egyptian in a
large American city, the outcome would have been equally as
reversed. Egyptians are simply a friendly people, and it was
not the fire, but rather those about me that stays in my mind
to this day.
But it has always been like that. I can remember on my
first visit to Egypt so many years ago, becoming lost in the
back streets of Cairo. Wandering up to a small cluster of
Egyptians, I made inquires about my location. A few of them
could speak English, but rather than pointing me in the right
direction, several of them broke off and led me back to my
hotel. My memories include many
times walking down a street in this city of sixteen million
people with a camera around my neck, and being greeted by a
passerby with a smile and a friendly, "welcome". My
memories include so many instances of people going out of
their way to help a stranger in their land.
This is my Egypt, and the reason I miss her so when back in
the US. Like most Americans, I love my country and there are
certainly more beautiful places to visit at home than I could
probably ever journey to in my lifetime. However, Egypt draws
me back again and again, and cradles my soul as it did
mankind's early civilization so long ago. I hope all of my
readers may someday experience Egypt for themselves. It is
more than a trip of a lifetime. It is a life experience.
Other Live from the Longchamps Stories
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