It would seem that everywhere one travels in Egypt to visit
the most ancient monuments, if they have a desire, they may
also explore archaic
Christian facilities.
Naqada,
not to far north of Luxor
(ancient Thebes),
was an important region during the pharaonic
period, where a vast necropolis may be found. However, it
is also of interest to students of Christian antiquities.
Here, the desert was once inhabited by famous anchorites such
as Elias of Mount Bishwaw and Samuel of Mount Banhadab.
During the thirteenth century, there were many churches
and monasteries
between Naqada and nearby Qamula, including the famous
Churches of Saint Theodore, Saint Mercurius, Saint George and
Saint Victor. Others included churches dedicated to Saint
Shenute and Saint John, and there was also the monasteries of
Saint Nub and Saint Theodore. Today, there is also a well
known church of Saint Mercurius near Qamula, which claims the
tomb of that early Christian, and where a festival, or mulid
is held annually on August first. Other ruins go back to the
very earliest Christian
period, though the present buildings in the region date
considerably later.
The current monasteries in the region that can be explored
number at least seven, and are located on the edge of the
desert a few kilometers from the road that runs parallel to
the Nile
along its west bank. Most of these monasteries are disserted,
though sometimes their churches are used for liturgical
celebrations on special occasions.
The Northern Monastery of Saint Michael
Ancient monuments in the area between Naqada and Qamula
are, for the most part, bordered to the north and south by
monasteries dedicated to Saint Michael. Called Deir Malak
Mikha'il by the Coptic Christians, the northern most of these,
located about four kilometers southwest of Naqada on a slight
elevation, is surrounded by a large desert necropolis
(cemetery). There are several gates that allow access to the
monastery in the northern and southern walls. Within the
monastery's eastern enclosure is a Church dedicated to Saint
Michael, which is roofed with a number domes, typical of
construction that dates from the eighteenth or nineteenth
century. There is another church situated in the southern
section of the enclosure, but regrettably it is completely
ruined. Another new, small church with one sanctuary (haikal)
is located about fifty meters north of the monastery.
The Monastery of the Cross and the Monastery of Deir Abu
Lif
Most monasteries in Egypt are dedicated to a specific
person who was usually an early Christian saint, but south of
this Monastery of Saint Michael is a monastery that was
dedicated to the Holy Cross. It is situated exactly on the
edge of the desert in the small village of Hagar Danfig. Known
to the Coptic Christians as Deir al-Salib, this monastery has
two churches. Again, the most ancient of the churches,
dedicated to the Holy Cross and located in the western part of
the monastery, is in a state of ruin. The newer church,
dedicated to Saint Shenute (Shenuda) and containing
three sanctuaries, is to be found in the eastern part of the
monastery. Both churches are roofed with cupolas and are of
actually fairly recent construction, though they contain architectural
elements from ancient edifices.
Nearby is another monastery, known as Deir Abu Lif. Abu Lif
may refer to Saint Andrew, since it is also called the the
Monastery of Andrew.
The Monastery of Saint George and the Monastery of Abbot
Pisentius
The next monastery south, known as the Monastery of Saint
George, or Deir Mari Girgis (also Deir al-Magma'), is the most
extensive in this region. It is located just west of Qamula
al-Bahri where it is situated about five hundred meters west
of the edge of the desert on a slight rise.
This monastery is enclosed by a high enclosure with an
entrance though a gate on the north wall. Within, three
churches are all attached while a fourth stands along to the
west in the debris of other ancient buildings. It too, is
mostly ruined. The three churches that stand together are
dedicated to Saint Michael (northern church), Saint George
(central church) and Saint John (southern church). Though they
all stand together, they were each built at different times
and differ considerably in their construction.
One enters the Church of Saint Michael through a hole in
the north wall of the nave of the adjoining Church of Saint
George. The main apse
of this church, located furthermost to the north, was once
adorned with beautiful painted depictions of Christ surrounded
by angles, but is now ruined.
The basilican
style church
of Saint George is also ruined, though there are vestiges of
the paintings
that once adorned the walls of its sanctuary. It dates from
the eighteenth or nineteenth centuries. The iconostasis
(screen) that separated the three sanctuaries from the nave
was built using the columns of an earlier church. The southern
most church of Saint John dates from a later period than the
other two, and has been entirely rebuilt.
About two hundred meters from the monastery of St. George
is that of Abbot Pisentius (Deir Anba Bisantawus), which has a
church that dates from the eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries. It was roofed with twelve cupolas.
The Monastery of Saint Victor
The next significant monastery, which is the oldest of the
lot, is that of Saint Victor, located on a small hill about
one kilometer northwest of the village of Qamula al-Awsat and
five kilometers south of the Monastery of Saint George. It is
known by the Copts as Deir Mari Buqtur. This monastery has an
entrance gate in the east wall. In the southwestern corner of
the monastery is the tomb of Basiliyus Ghali (1938). Here, the
ancient mud-brick church has four sanctuaries, or haikals,
dedicated to Saint Victor, Saint Michael, the Holy Virgin Mary
and Saint Menas. Three of these sanctuaries were recently
rebuilt, whereas the naos has kept the architecture of the
ancient phase of construction. The north, east and south
exterior walls go back to the original edifice from the eighth
or ninth century, while the square central space is the result
of an architectural remodeling in the twelfth century. It was
at that time that the church received the cupolas which are so
traditional to upper Egyptian churches of the Middle Ages.
Unfortunately, the paintings that adorned these sanctuaries
are mostly now lost. At least one monk occupies this monastery
today. South of the monastery is the new Church of Saint
Victor, with its entrance facing west.

Floor Plan of the triple sanctuary church at Saint Victor Monastery
The Southern Monastery of Saint Michael
Finally, there is the southern most Monastery of Saint
Michael, also known as Deir al-Malak Mikh'il. This church is
also known as the Monastery of the Well, because of its
well that produced extraordinarily fresh and wholesome
water. Here, a keep is surrounded by enclosure walls. This
monastery is entered through a gate in the east wall, and
within there are two churches, both of which are mostly in ruins.
In the southern church, one can discern three sanctuaries, but
the vestiges of the northern church are such that considerable
imagination is required in order to picture its original
structure. In the southern church dedicated to the archangel,
which is actually the older of the two, the triple sanctuary
was preceded by a choir and a nave with six equal-sized domed
chambers, or bays. It dates to the sixteenth or seventeenth
centuries. This monastery is said to have possessed the body
of Saint Pisentius at one time, who was one of the founders of
monasteries in Upper Egypt. Today, this monastery may be
inhabited by religious women.
References:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference
Number |
| 2000 Years of Coptic
Christianity |
Meinardus, Otto F. A. |
1999 |
American University in Cairo
Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 5113 |
| Christian Egypt: Coptic Art
and Monuments Through Two Millennia |
Capuani, Massimo |
1999 |
Liturgical Press, The |
ISBN 0-8146-2406-5 |
| Churches and Monasteries of
Egypt and Some Neighboring Countries, The |
Abu Salih, The Armenian,
Edited and Translated by Evetts, B.T.A. |
2001 |
Gorgias Press |
ISBN 0-9715986-7-3 |
Archives
|