The Nilometer in Modern
Cairo on the
southern tip of Rawda
(Roda) Island facing al-Fustat to the east is a rather
unique historical site often overlooked by visitors to Cairo.
It has the properties of being one of the oldest structures in
Cairo built after the Arab conquest, as well as having a link
to Egypt's pharaonic
past. This Nilometers, in Arabic known as a miqyas (Mikyas
al-Nil), was used to measure the flood levels of the Nile
River and is a heritage of Egypt's distant past,
when such structures doted the course of Egypt's grand river.
These types of devices continued to be useful up until the
modern era when the Nile was tamed by modern dams. During
August and September, it was used to regulate the distribution
of water as well as to compute the levy of taxes paid as
tribute by Egypt to the the Arab Caliph, since the generosity
of the Nile was in large part an indication of Egypt's
prosperity.
Although there is evidence that a nilometer exited in this
location since the Pharaonic Period, the Umayyads
under Suayman Abd al-Malek had built a simple Nilomter similar
to those of the earlier period here in about 715 AD, which was
restored in 815 by Caliph al-Marmoun. It was destroyed by an
exceptionally high flood in 850. The one on Rawda Island today
was built by order of the Abbasid
Caliph al-Mutawakkil (847-861) under the direction of Ahmad
ibn Muhammad al-Hasib at the end of his reign in 861. It was
devised by Abu'l 'Abbas Ahmad ibn Muhammad ibn Kathir al-Farqhani,
a native of Farghana, West Turkestan who was known in the West
as the astronomer Alfraganus. Ibn Tulun had the Nilometer
restored between 872 and 873 AD, and it was again restored in
1092 by the Fatimid
Caliph, al- Mustansir. It remains mostly original, except for
the wooden painted conical dome roof which is a modern
restoration. This cupola in the shape we know it today was
modeled from an earlier example built after the Nilometer was
bombarded by French troops during their occupation
of Egypt. When this earlier dome was destroyed by a nearby
factory explosion in 1825, it was refitted by using an 18th
century painting by the Danish traveler, Fredrik Ludvig Norden
as a reference.

A look up into the dome covering the Nilometer
This Nilometer is a somewhat more sophisticated instrument
then earlier examples such as the one on Elephantine
Islandin the Nile at Aswan.
It consists of a pit that extends well below the level of the
Nile that in turns connects with the Nile through
tunnels dug on three levels on its eastern side. These tunnels
are now blocked off from the Nile, so that the Nilometer no
longer functions. The pit,
which is lined with stone, is circular at the bottom and
rectangular at the top, is accessed by a staircase on the
interior walls. Its walls have four recesses with pointed
arches, and small, relatively thin columns to either side
adorned with two types of zigzag framing decorations carved on
its stone voussoirs.
Though these arches, known as "tiers-point" are the
same type as those used in Gothic architecture, they proceeded
the Gothic arch by some four hundred years.
In the center of the pit a marble, octagonal column with a Corinthian
capital that
rises from its depths surmounting a millstone. At the top
there is a wooden beam spanning the Nilometer. To measure the
Nile flood, this column is graded and divided into 19 cubits
(a cubit is slightly more than half a meter, and hence, it was
capable of measuring floods up to about 9.2 meters). The flood
that this Nileometer measured was both important to the rulers
of Egypt as well as the whole population. An ideal flood filed
the Nilometer up to the sixteenth mark and less then this
could mean drought and famine. On the other hand, if the
measurement exceed the 19 cubits, a catastrophic flood was at
hand. In the days prior to the expected flood, this column
would be anointed with saffron and musk in order to help
induce a good water level.
Plain Kufic inscriptions adorn the walls of the Nilometer
and are the earliest surviving examples of architectural
epigraphy (inscriptions considered as a group) in Egypt. They
are taken from Quranic texts that refers to water, vegetation
and prosperity, and therefore have a talismanic meaning, but
there is also secular text as well. These inscriptions were
executed in white marble originally on a blue background,
though the letters themselves were left in the natural stone
color. However, the inscription recording the
establishment of the Nileomter by al-Mutawakkil has been
removed. Creswell, a well known historian of this period,
believes this was done by Ibn Tulun, who replaced it with
additional verse, as part of a campaign to
assert his independence from the foreign Caliphate. Part of
the original inscriptions read:
"We send down rain as a blessing from heaven,
whereby we cause gardens to spring forth and the grain to
harvest." (50:9) "Hast thou not seen how that God
has sent down out of heaven water, and in the morning the
earth becomes green?" (22:62)
 
Left: A cross section of the Nilometer from
Norden's Views;
Right: An early lithograph of the Nilometer on Rawda (Roda) Island
Because of its importance in determining the prosperity
Egypt would experience during the following year, this
Nilometer was the departure point of the greatest of Cairo's
celebrations throughout the medieval period. This was the Fath
al-Khalij, the festival of the Opening of the Canal, which
ceased in 1899 when the Khalij (Khalig) was filled in (this Nilometer
itself probably continued to be used up until the last flood
in 1970). The Khalij Canal started opposite Rawda Island,
bordered the medieval city to the west, and irrigated its
outlying gardens and fields. The Khalij canal was blocked with
an earth dam and was cleaned before the flood. It would then
be opened when the water level reached the sixteenth cubit
level, when the caliph and later sultans and pashas would
inaugurate the celebrations that lasted for several days. The
summer flood from the Nile would then fill this canal,
together with many ponds that would have winter beds green
with vegetation. During the celebrations, decorated boats
would crowed the waters, and among these, the most splendid
would be that of the ruler. Those who witnessed this event
refer to it as Cairo's most spectacular celebration. During
the hot summer months, the Khalij and the ponds remained
filled with pleasure boats and its shores were lined with
entertainment. Near the Nilometer was a mosque for
prayers during the flood celebration, and a palace for
banquets held by the various rulers.
However, the grand celebration was not guaranteed as an
annual event. When the Nile flood waters failed to reach the
sixteenth cubic mark, the celebrations were canceled and
prayers and fasting were held instead in order to ward off the
expected drought and famine.

References:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference
Number |
| Islamic Monuments in Cairo,
A Practical Guide |
Paker, Richard B.; Sabin,
Robin; Williams, Caroline |
1985 |
American University in Cairo
Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 036 7 |
| Islamic Architecture in
Cairo: An Introduction |
Behrens-Abouseif, Doris |
1992 |
E. J. Brill |
ISBN 90-04-08677-3 |
| Mosque, The: History,
Architectural Development & Regional Diversity |
Frishman, Martin and Khan,
Hasan-Uddin |
1994 |
Thames and Hudson LTD |
ISBN 0-500-34133-8 |
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