
There are a number of other monuments besides the temple of
Isis
that were moved from Philae to Agilika Island, some of which
are extraordinary monuments. To the north of Hadrian's gate
on the western side of the island and of the Temple of Isis
is the ruined temple built by the Emperor Claudius and
dedicated to Harendotes, "Horus the protector (or avenger)
of his Father", one of the many forms of
Horus.
North of the Temple of
Isis
is the ruined temple of Augustus, which was built in the
eighteenth year of his reign. Notably, a stone bearing a
trilingual inscription of Cornelius Gallus was found here.
Gallus was the first Roman Prefect appointed after the death
of Cleopatra
VII. Now in the
Egyptian Antiquities Museum in
Cairo, it
records his victory when he successfully suppressed a revolt
by the Egyptians in 29 BC. North of this is the Roman town
gate that leads to a quay, also built by the Romans along
the northeast side of the island. This spectacular gate was
probably a triumphal arch built by the Roman Emperor
Diocletian.
Down south from here on the eastern side of the island
adjacent to the main temple complex of
Isis
is the temple of
Hathor, built by
Ptolemy VI Philometor and
Ptolemy VIII
Euergetes II. It consists of a colonnaded hall and a
forecourt. The colonnade was decorated by Augustus and is
filled with carvings of festivities in recognition of Isis
and Hathor, the Aphrodite of Greece and goddess of all the
joys of the senses. Here we find scenes of music and
drinking.
Augustus offers a festal crown to Isis and flowers to
Nephthys.
Bes
is also here, beating a tambourine and playing a harp, while
an ape plays a lute. In fact, flute players, harpers and
dancing apes flow round the pillars while priests carry in
an antelope for the feast.
Further south is the last important monument on the
island itself, which always seems to catch the eye of the
visitor. This is the so-called Kiosk, sometimes referred to
as "Pharaoh's Bed". The rectangular building has fourteen
columns with beautifully carved floral capitals that once
supported a wooden roof. Only two of the screen walls
between the columns are completed. They show the Emperor Trajan burning incense before
Isis
and
Osiris and offering wine to Isis and
Horus. The Kiosk is often ascribed to Trajan, but is
might well have been built earlier than this, possibly
during the reign of Augustus. This unfinished building is
one of the most popular monuments of Philae and was in
ancient times the formal entrance to the island.
In addition to these ruins, there are also two
ancient Coptic churches, as well as the remains of a
Coptic monastery. Reportedly, there were as many as two
additional Christian churches on the original island, and
there is a Bishop of Philae mentioned in the year 362 AD.
The original
island of Philae contained mud-brick settlement
remains on the northern part of the island, and to the east
and southeast, which would have originally housed the staff
that served the temple, but these structures were left to be
flooded by the lake.
Before leaving Philae, we must also mention the island of
Bigeh (Biggeh, Biga), located just to the south of new
Philae and a little to the west of the original island. By
the start of the
Graeco-Roman
Period, this site had come to be viewed as both the tomb
of
Osiris and the source of the Nile, which was believed to
issue from a cavern deep beneath the island. A special
sanctuary was built there in ancient times, but the area was
prohibited to people and thus became known in Greek as the
Abaton, or "forbidden place". According to legend, the left
leg of Osiris was buried here after his body had been cut up
by his brother
Seth.
The burial place on Bigeh was said to be surrounded by 365
altars on which the priests laid daily offerings of milk.
Although originally of greater religious importance than
nearby Philae, Bigeh thus remained outside the normal
development cycle of temple building and growth, so it was
Philae that was developed instead. The remains of the small
temple at Bigeh are on the eastern side of the island,
opposite the location of the original Philae.
Once every ten days and on annual festivals, the statue
of
Isis was carried out of her temple at Philae to visit
the tomb of her husband on Bigeh.
It is difficult to overrate the importance of the
religious complex at Philae. It provides us with a major
late cult center which is exceptionally well preserved.
Beginning in the Saite period and continuing into the
30th Dynasty
it underwent a spectacular flowering in the
Graeco-Roman
Period and, because of the circumstances of its
dismantling and removal, there is possibly a unique insight
into its architectural evolution until and including its
conversion to a Christian center. As the last bastion of the
ancient Egyptian religious culture, it is no coincidence
that the latest datable
hieroglyphic inscription (August 24, 394 AD) comes from
Philae. The latest
demotic inscription is also found here,
dating to 452 AD.
It seems only fitting to depart Philae with words of
Amelia Edwards, as she too leaves the island:
"It has been a hot day, and there is dead calm on
the river. My last sketch finished, I wander slowly
round from spot to spot, saying farewell to Pharaoh's
Bed - to the Painted Columns - to every terrace, palm,
and shrine, and familiar point of view. I peep once
again into the mystic chamber of Osiris. I see the sun
set for the last time from the roof the the Temple of
Isis. Then, when all that wondrous flush of rose and
gold has died away, comes the warm afterglow. No words
can paint the melancholy beauty of Philae at this hour.
The surrounding mountains stand out jagged and purple
against a pale amber sky. The Nile is glassy. Not a
breath, not a bubble, troubles the inverted landscape.
Every palm is twofold; every stone is doubled. The big
boulders in med-stream are reflected so perfectly that
it is impossible to tell where the rock ends and the
water begins. The Temples, meanwhile, have turned to a
subdued golden bronze; and the pylons are peopled with
shapes that glow with fantastic life, and look ready to
step down from their places.
The solitude is perfect, and there is a magical
stillness in the air. I hear a mother crooning to her
baby on the neighbouring island - a sparrow twittering
in its little nest in the capital of a column below by
feet - a vulture screaming plaintively among the rocks
in the far distance.
I look; I listen; I promise myself that I will
remember it all in years to come - all these solemn
hills, these silent colonnades, these deep, quiet places
of shadow, these sleeping palms. Lingering till it is
all but dark, I at last bed them farewell, fearing lest
I may behold them no more."
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See Also
Resources:
- The Encyclopedia of the Archaeology of Ancient Egypt ed.
By Katherine Bard
- Island of Isis, Philae, Temple of the Nile by William
MacQuitty
- A Guide to the Antiquities of Ancient Egypt by Arthur
Weigall
- The Oxford Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt
- Complete Temples of Ancient Egypt by Richard Wilkinson