One of my favorite sections of
Cairo is Zamalek, an island in the Nile that
basically lies between modern downtown Cairo and Giza. It is an upscale,
garden area with a number of attractions as well as many embassies, schools
popular hotels and some of the better budget hotels. Here, one finds the
Cairo Marriott, one of our favorite luxury hotels, the Gezira Sheraton which is
a popular stopover for many tours entering Egypt, as well as our favorite budget
hotel, the
Longchamps. There is also the Gezira Club, a country club originally
built by

the
British, the modern Cairo Opera House and landmarks such as the
Cairo
Tower.
There are a number of fine restaurants, a lot of fast food western outlets and
reasonable and interesting shopping. It is often a beautiful area with lush
trees overgrowing streets, offering easy access to other important sections of
Cairo.
It seems that Khedive Ismail popularized the island when he built his summer
palace on there, and a number of royal families followed suite. There are
several legend's surrounding Ismail's palace. One is that he built it to
house three of his 14 wives, but probably the most popular story is that he
built it to accommodate the Empress Eugenie during the inauguration of the Suez
Canal. Certainly Eugenie, and other guests of the Suez Inauguration stayed in
the palace.. Today, his palace is the Marriott. Other royal residences
were also converted for other uses. These include the place of of Price
Amr Ibrahim, which is now the Ceramic
Museum, the palace of Prince Sa'id
Toussoun that is now a branch of the Council of Ministers and the Royal Rest
House near the Gezira Sheraton which is now a military establishment.
The island is well known for having a number of fine private
schools. The first school we know of that was built on Zamalek was the
Catholic Girls College of Bahgat Ali Street and St. Joseph Preparatory School
for boys off Gabalaya Street which is today Brazil Street.
The
island was also home to Egypt's first modern day fairgrounds that, a half
century later, became the new Japanese contributed Opera
House. Actually, some
of the exhibit building remain. Today, these are the Nile Hall (Saray
an-Nil) and Al-Mustadira (Artists' Synicate Building) that shows works by
contemporary artists, and Saray an-Nasr, where the Museum of Modern Egyptian Art
is located.
Other attractions include the Ministry of Culture's Akhenaten Gallery that is
housed in a villa on Maahad as-Swissri street, the Italian Cultural Center and a
museum housing the works of Mahmud Mukhtar, one of Egypt's internationally known
artists.
Prior
to World War II, and ever since the construction of the original Gezira Palace
in 1866, the island was almost exclusively known as Gezirat Boulaq (Boulaq
Island). The name Boulaq came form thriving port by the same name on the Nile's
eastern bank. During this time period there was a small bridge linking the
island's midsection to Giza, along with the street that intersected the island's
middle named Zamalek. This street later became Avenue Fouad, and after
1952 took its present name, 26th of July Avenue.
Actually, the bridge and street borrowed the name, Zamalek from a small
village in Giza called Al Zamalek. This village was just southwest of
Imbaba Village, and it is thought that the meaning of Zamalek derives from
Zomlok, a Kurdish word meaning straw hut.
After World War II, during a time that Egypt remained under British control,
the island's population grew rapidly. Soon the area north of 26th of July
Avenue was commonly referred to as Zamalek, while the midsection of the island
was referred to as Gezira Al Wasta.
However,
soon, the entire island became known as Zamalek. However, older residents even
today sometimes refer to the area south of 26th of July Avenue as Gezira, but
this is mostly due to the Gezira Sporting Club located there and established by
the British in 1883. The opulence of the 1920 and British rule can be seen in
the Amr Ibrahim House, located just opposite the main exit gate of the
club.
Even after World War II, the island's northernmost area was marshy and would
completely disappear during high floods, therefore being mostly
uninhabitable. The area was later built up, and due to the Great Dam at
Aswan, no longer suffers this fate.
Today Zamalek is a thriving center for middle and upper class Egyptians,
along with foreign dignitaries (there are more embassies in Zamalek than any
other district of Cairo) and many tourists. It remains one of the most
pleasant areas of Cairo. Indeed, it is Cairo's most fashionable residential
district where one will find the BMW's and Mercedes of rich Egyptians,
supermarkets that sell sushi or French pastries and always an upbeat take on
Egyptian life.