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Flux
By Juergen Stryjak
It may not be easy to locate this restaurant. In fact, for some
patrons, finding the Flux may be the real challenge. But I
consider this as part of the package, part of the game and not a
problem at all. After all, which would you prefer? A popular
place, which is everybody’s darling, jam-packed with upper-class
high-school kids, tourists returning from a day trip to the
Pyramids and your colleagues from the office, with whom you have
more than enough contact in the daytime? Or would you prefer to
find a hidden gourmet oasis, the secret haven of a sophisticated
crowd? The Flux seems rather to be the latter one, although
design, food quality and the reasonable prices will make it,
sooner rather than later, a very popular place. I am sure – and
afraid - of this.
 The owners don’t
advertise. Instead, they trust in word of mouth, which means, that
they trust in their own capabilities of running an interesting
restaurant, too. Samantha Dogmetchi, a British expatriate living
for seven years in Cairo, has showcased her talents by managing
the L’Aubergine, the El Gato Negro Club and the Cairo Jazz Club.
Her partner, Salah Maklad, an Australian with Egyptian roots, has
managed and owned several restaurants before on the kangaroo’s
continent.
When I entered the Flux for the first time, I was accompanied
by a Texan. The first thing he said was: "It looks very
European!" I don’t know if he really means European or
rather what Americans expect as being European, but suddenly I
remembered a lot of new stylish bars, restaurants and cafés,
which opened in the city centre of Berlin, my hometown, during the
last decade. As different as they are, they have some things in
common: the desire to mix several cultural and ethnic styles, a
very individual touch and a daring surprise for the senses –
without being too crazy or too extravagant.
The Flux in general is very Egyptian, but nowhere in a way as
one would expect it being Egyptian. "True to our name, we
wanted to be able to flip things around a little," says
Samantha Dogmetchi. So, as I was sitting there, I looked around
and found a lot of things to be discovered. Sheeshs or typical
Arab shutters, hang from the ceiling, while the walls display
paintings by Egyptian artists. The menu choices reveal a selection
of Egyptian food, as well as other items, prepared in a fresh and
exciting manner that combines the ethnic touches of many regions.
As always, I am keen to explore new restaurants in Cairo, in
search of a special style, a personal vision as reflected by the
owners’ creativity, and I was not disappointed at the Flux. But
my true aim in going there was to sample the Molokhiyya on Rabbit
Risotto, a delicacy of which I had heard. I am addicted to
Molokhiyya, and although I am used to
having the typical Egyptian version, I truly enjoyed the Flux’s
cosmopolitan version. My dining adventure started with a nearly
perfect bean soup as an appetizer. Suspiciously, my friend tried a
rib-eye steak, which passed his Texas taste test easily, judging
by the satisfied look on his face.
The bar offers a wide range of alcoholic drinks. The elegant
music, jazz, pop, or hip hop, fits the dark ambience, the waiters
are attentive, and if you have enough money left to buy a unique
souvenir, just purchase one of the contemporary Egyptian paintings
from the wall. The Flux owners want to change their exhibition
monthly, anyway, in cooperation with a well-known downtown art
gallery.
Flux. 2 Gameat El-Nasr Street. Mohandiseen. Cairo. Near to the
Shooting Club, some hundred meters away from El-Sawra Square (El-Thawra
Square). Telephone: 33 86 601. Prices: starters between LE 6 and
LE 28 (US-$ 1.50 to $ 7), main dishes between LE 20 and LE 40 ($ 5
to $ 10). Egyptian wine around LE 60 per bottle ($ 15), the
cheapest Egyptian beer LE 11 ($ 2.
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