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Wreck Diving in the Egyptian
Red Sea
By: Ned Middleton
The Red Sea is famous among divers - and quite
rightly so. As a professional underwater photo-journalist who gets
paid for each item published, I endeavour to return home from each
trip with a maximum number of potential articles, and this is how
I learned about shipwrecks. The Egyptian Red Sea is home to some
of the most magnificent coral reef formations that I have been
privileged to see. Describing where the diver might find masses of
hard corals, or the best place to see soft corals or perhaps
sharks or turtle is, however, subject matter for a single article
about the Red Sea as a whole..
On the other hand, when it comes to shipwrecks,
Egypt has more than it’s fair share and each of these has a very
individual story to tell. Curiously, up to about 3 years ago, many
of these were not well documented at all.
One of the tasks that is very much associated
the correct identification of any shipwreck, is being able to
unravel all the available information and misinformation and then
set aside that which is patently incorrect before proceeding along
the right path. These days it seems that too many writers are so
keen to get their work into print that accuracy is often ignored.
For me, accuracy is vitally important - so much so that, for
instance, I find it utterly incredulous that at least one
guidebook published in 1999 still describes the "SS
Kingston" as the "Sarah H."
Similarly, there are those who claim to know of
no fewer than 7 wrecks on Sha’b Abu Nuhas Reef whereas seasoned
travelers are familiar with only four - all of which are
outstanding wreck dives, which lay across the northern shore of
this treacherous piece of real estate. The western-most is the
well-known "Giannis D" which was launched as the "Shoyo
Maru" and later became the "Markos" before adopting
her final name. There are still those who insist on incorrectly
calling this ship the "Markos" and whilst that in itself
is not a problem, false rumors of another vessel called the
"Marcus" have led more than one researcher off onto a
false trail.
The Giannis D
So already we have two names for one ship. The
next shipwreck along this stretch is the "Carnatic" and
no problems there. Then there is the "Chrisoula K" which
was launched as the "Dora Oldendorf" and is regularly
called the "Olden" because that part of her previous
name is still outlined on the hull. Clearly size does not matter
here because the "Chrisoula K" was a vessel of 3,720
gross registered tons and the "Olden" a 27,288 ton bulk
carrier which sank on 2nd February 1987 in the open Red
Sea and is now found in over 3,300 feet of water.
The Chrisoula K
The final wreck on this particular reef has,
for some unknown reason, been known as the "Seastar" for
a good many years. I have no idea from where that name originated
and can find no trace of any "Seastar" ever having been
lost in the Red Sea. Her real name is the "Kimon M" and
she is very similar - in terms of size and age, to the "Chrisoula
K". So there it is, four wrecks that have seven names still
in regular use and even published.
Of course, the local Egyptian seafarers have
their own, quite excellent, way of identifying each wreck. With true
identities being unimportant, they simply call each vessel after
the cargo it was carrying. Thus, the "Giannis D" is
known as the "Wood Wreck" because of her cargo of sawn
timber, the "Carnatic" is the "Wine Wreck" on
account of the bottles that were recovered, the "Chrisoula
K" became the "Tile Wreck" and the "Kimon
M" is the "Lentil Wreck."
The Kimon M
Confusing? Not really! - at least not until one
starts to read so-called authentic accounts of the "SS
Lentil" - a vessel which, like the "Sarah H," never
actually existed.
Similarly, last year, I was informed that a
leading German magazine had published an account of another
shipwreck - the "Carlisle," a secret wreck site
apparently somewhere north of the "Thistlegorm." Of
course, I have no way of knowing whether or not any vessel
actually exists, but it is interesting to note that, in 1941, the
survivors of the "Thistlegorm" were rescued by HMS
Carlisle - a Light Cruiser of 4,190 tons which was later
damaged by enemy fire in the Mediterranean where her career as a
warship came to an end.
So, why all the secrecy? Sadly some divers
keeps their new finds secret until they have stripped the vessel
of all the attractive items - and in contravention of Egyptian
law. There are also those who claim to know the location of a
secret wreck site when nothing actually exists. Finally, there are
those divers who keep the details of their new find a secret until
they are able to become the first into print with full details -
and I expect to be joining this group after my next trip to Egypt
in June when I shall be able to confirm (or otherwise) the results
of our research.
The truth about any wrecked ship is largely
obtained through thorough and painstaking research and a fear of
going into print with the wrong information (remember: reputations
are hard to build and easy to ruin). In short, one must be as sure
of one’s facts as is possible to achieve.
Looking at the Egyptian Red Sea objectively, I
would say that this is one tourist destination with a very bright
future. On land, things are changing at an incredible pace and the
numbers of flights continue to increase with each successive
season. As far the sea is concerned, the underwater flora and
fauna are already well protected and thankfully, divers do seem to
be generally more and more aware of their responsibilities in this
regard - we do not collect shells or coral and we no longer
hand-feed fish. There is still, however, considerable more
education required when it comes to shipwrecks and I do fear for
the future of the Thistlegorm. Having said that, attitudes towards
taking souvenirs are changing and many of today’s divers are
quick to rebuke any fellow traveler who appears to be intent on
breaking the rules.
If I have any ambition here, it would be to be
amongst the first to visit a virgin shipwreck - complete with
bell, binnacle and telegraphs all in place, and then report this
find in national (and even international) diving magazines so that
others might share the same experience. I would then like to
return after a year or so had passed and find all those artefacts
still in place. If ever that were to happen I would be satisfied
in the knowledge that I had helped a maximum number of people to
enjoy the same experience as myself. Such an ambition may even be
realised later this month (June 2001) - so watch this space for an
update.
Ned’s More detailed bio.
My first 17 years as a Scuba Diver were whilst
I was serving in the Army. Teaching those Gurkhas was, therefore, a
very pleasant change from the norm. I finally retired in May 1993
and became a professional underwater photo-journalist. I have 3 books
published and they are called:
Ten Years Underwater
Diving Belize (published by Aqua Quest in the
USA and available through Amazon books (go to their web-site and look up
the book and the "5 star" customer review rating).
Maltese Islands Diving Guide. (published in
July 1997 in Italy and now available in 4 languages (English, French,
German, Italian). This book sold over 25,000 copies in the 3½ years to
December 2000. This means I am the author of a "Best Seller!"
For the past 3 years I have been working on a
new book about the shipwrecks of the Egyptian Red Sea. This
largely came about because I could find no truly accurate accounts of these
fantastic shipwrecks. For example one very popular book uses
photographs of 3 different wrecks to illustrate a wreck called the "Seastar"
when no such wreck exists.. Then there are all the misnomers - such as that
favourite "Sarah H." I intend to explain away and, therefore, destroy
all these many myths which cause so much confusion. I will include
only the accurate and up to date information and, in so doing, I am able
to reveal new information on already well-established wrecks.
I am confident I have finally also finally identified the unknown
cargo boat at Zabargad Island (and that has been a 3 year search!)
and, as already stated above, I shall be visiting a newly discovered
shipwreck 14-28 June.
Such definitive works take considerable time
and this new book runs to a "two volume set" totalling 20
Chapters. I have already completed over 45,000 words and a marine artist of the highest
standing has agreed to illustrate the book which should be completed
by the end of the year and, hopefully on sale in mid 2002.
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