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RAMADAN IN EGYPT
A lifetime experience
by Sameh Arab
Spending the holy month of Ramdan in Egypt is different than
elsewhere. Other than the rituals practiced during that month,
certain social habits of Egyptian Moslems are much different than
anywhere else.
Ramadan is a month that follows the lunar calendar, the basis
of Islamic (or Hijri) calendar. With an eleven-day difference than
the Gregorian, the exact timing of Ramadan during the year becomes
variable, sometimes falling in summer, and sometimes in winter.
The first day of Ramadan too is variable, since "Sha’aban",
the preceding month, sometimes comes in 29 days and sometimes in
30. Astronomical calculations are utilized to detect the birth of
the moon, yet the cornerstone remains to be its visualization
after sunset. Ramadan lasts for 29 or 30 days, as most lunar
months.
The holiness of this month comes from the fact that it
hallmarked the day when the Holy Spirit - Gabriel – started the
transmission of God’s message to prophet Mohammad, 14 centuries
ago. The exact date has never been identified, but believed to be
on one of the last 10 days of this month, which Moslems call
"Lailat el-Qadr". According to Islam, the month is
dedicated to prayers, as it is believed that it is an occasion to
wipe one’s sins and enjoy God’s unlimited mercy.
The principal ritual during Ramadan is fasting. This entails
abandoning eating, drinking, smoking or sinning - even if minor -
throughout the whole day, from dawn to sunset. Though the usual
daily practice is natural, Moslems prefer to spend more time
praying or reading the Qora’an, particularly at night.
The daily meals become limited to two, the first of which is
the "iftar" which is breaking the fasting that takes
place immediately with sunset. The timing of the second meal -
"sohour" - is variable according to personal preference,
but usually delayed as much as possible until just before dawn. In
between "iftar" and "sohour", people are
allowed to eat liberally.
What makes this month different in Egypt? Since long time,
Egyptians adopted certain social habits during that month, which
are not directly related to religion. Officially, the working
hours are diminished to allow more time for prayers. People
usually sleep very late, sometimes at dawn, after spending long
times in mosques. The traditional practice start immediately after
sunset, which is announced to people through all mosques by the
ritual "azan", or the call for prayers. Long time ago,
it became the habit that the government fires a canon, which voice
is so loud to be heard everywhere for announcement. Though modern
technology has replaced this habit, yet it is still practiced and
announced daily on the air on TV. This tradition started during
the 16th century, when the canon was fired from the
Cairo Citadel over "el-Moqattam" mount, and continued
since then.
"Iftar" is a rich meal, which is considered the
principal one. Though this includes any type of food, yet the
desert almost always include the "konafa" or "qatayef".
The former is a cake-like made of wheat, and full of sugar, honey,
raisins and different types of nuts. The later is almost the same,
but takes the shape of a small circular cake, which is folded to
include the nuts and raisins.
With Ramadan being the most joyful month of the whole year,
children also have their share of fun. The "fanoos" or
lantern, is a must for every kid to have. These are traditionally
made of tin and colored glass, with a candle inside. Modern ones
are battery operated, but lack the spirit. All mosques and streets
during the whole month are full of colored lights in a festival
fashion, and in the past, children used to play in the streets
with their lanterns, singing "wahawy ya wahawy". This
tradition is still practiced, though rarely now in the streets,
except among middle to poor neighborhoods, and in the countryside.
With the introduction of TV in the 1960’s, the traditions
changed again. TV transmission lasts almost 24 hours a day, and
the programs include too many new serials and movies. More than
half of the serials produced by the Egyptian TV are broadcasted
during Ramadan for the first time. The other traditional program
is the "fawazeer", which is a daily riddle played in a
comic or a musical show. The family is usually gathered around the
TV for long hours, if they do not go for prayers. Nuts are
consumed as a snack, together with a traditional drink "qamar
el-deen" which is made of apricot. Most people prefer to
spend at least the first day in an extended family reunion
fashion, gathering in the grand parents’ house.
After the first few days, people start to go out after "iftar".
So many gatherings between families, friends or colleagues take
place for the main meal and few hours after. As so many people
prefer to spend their time in the old fashioned atmosphere of
cafes, many hotels now encourage this. It became a tradition for
all 5-star hotels to build a large tent, furnished in the old
Arabian decoration, where people enjoy their time listening to old
traditional songs and music, recalling memories of the old
classical days. "Sheesha" or water-pipes are smoked for
fun, which during that month becomes unlimited.
Sports have their share as well. Most clubs arrange minor
tournaments, especially for football. Many people from all ages
share, even the elders who compete with their peers. It is not
unusual to find so many professional football players among those
teams of amateurs. The issue is not to win, but to share. In poor
districts where no clubs are available, the youth and children can
utilize a side street or alley as a football field. Although not
encouraged throughout the year, but during Ramadan, people become
very tolerant.
The show remains till late at night, and sometimes till the
dawn prayers before people sleep. Some cannot stand that long
period, and would sleep early to wake up shortly before dawn. In
the old days, the tradition was a man named "mesaharaty"
to walk down the streets before dawn with a drum. He used to wake
up the people through singing and calling their names. The
mesaharaty was not paid a fixed salary, but donations, and though
this profession became extinct nowadays, yet it is still practiced
as a tradition.
The worst experience for a student becomes if Ramadan coincides
with exams. If possible, the exam timing would be shifted by the
school or university authorities. If not, the whole fun may be
lost. The majority of people fast during Ramadan. According to
Islam, the sick, travelers, elders and children are not supposed
to fast. Children start demanding that their parents would allow
them to fast at an early age. Usually, they are not allowed before
the age of 10, if the fasting hours are short. These are longer in
summer, and with the hot weather, fasting sometimes become
difficult. The sick too find it very difficult to accept the
concept that they will not fast. No one would ever wish to miss a
single day of that month, although has the right to compensate
later. It is not just the religious obligation, but also the
atmosphere.
It is not considered good manners to show that one is not
fasting. Though not illegal, those who do not fast would usually
hide to eat, drink or smoke. Christians too share their fellow
Moslems in most practices. Some would also fast as a sign of
national unity, but those who do not would never eat or drink in
public, as a sign of respect to Moslems’ traditions. Alcoholic
drinks are abandoned throughout the month, and all bars are
closed.
On the last day of Ramadan, observatories again check for the
new moon. The month ends after the 29th or 30th
day, for the "eid" or feast to start.
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