As promised, this is the first photo in full resolution for printing. It should be good for up to 30 x 40 inches. It is in Jpeg format at 2.9 Megs and 4992 x 3328 megapixels.  I have uploaded it to Yahoo photos. You may have yahoo print the picture, or download it to your own printer. The picture is of the Black Pyramid of Dashure. I give permission to print this photo to individuals and educational institutions. It may not be reproduced for commercial purposes or for distribution other than to class rooms by educational facilities. Look for more freebees to come.

Since I last wrote, I have indeed been busy, making a stop at the Cairo Tower to photograph Cairo by night, roaming through the desert just outside Cairo in order to approach some of the pyramids and other ruins at Dashure and Saqqara from a different angle, visiting old Coptic Cairo, and being captivated by the angels of Babylon, visiting the Citadel and even taking a walk though the old common bazaar between the Kan el-Khalili and the Citadel.

The day before yesterday, I started out the morning with a visit to Zahi Hawass. I have to admit that I am a fan of his, as I think that his first love is the Antiquities of Egypt, and protecting them. Some of his policies have not always been excessively popular among some, but those are usually the crackpots and hooligans of Egyptology. I very much hope that he and Tour Egypt can work together on some future projects.

Though my home in Egypt is on Zamalek, the garden island, at the Hotel Longchamps, I nevertheless had never visited the Cairo Tower. Its a tube shaped structure with a restaurant and an observation balcony at the top, affording a great view all about the city. Its a wonderful place to do a little night photography, and I did exactly that. From there, one may even see the pyramids of Giza under perfect conditions, though alas there was a bit of haze the night before last when I visited the tower. Of course, for night photography, one should really bring along a tripod, which I had, and be mindful that it can be pretty windy. However, the effort is certainly rewarding.

The Black Pyramid at Dashure

Then, yesterday, aboard a brand new Jeep wagon, which may have been a bit too nice for the journey, I set off with Maryanne Stroud of “Living in Egypt” fame early in the morning for an adventure. We were sneaking up on pyramids, and other monuments as only Maryanne knows how to do, though the desert from the back side. What a bumpy, sandy, sometimes hair raising and wonderful tour. I had actually never made it up to the Black Pyramid, nor to South Saqqara which is currently closed, but through the desert all things are possible. She is oh so familiar with this little part of Egypt, knowing even who lives where along the desert edge, and running in to old friends on horseback in the middle of the dunes. Needless to say, I got some great, and rather unusual shots of some of Egypt’s most wonderful pyramids, and not another human usually anywhere about.

An Angel at Babylon

That afternoon we, myself and a driver, went on to Old Cairo, sometimes called Coptic Cairo, and specifically Fort Babylon. There, I discovered what many references usually seem to ignore, a vast graveyard. Tourists do not seem to flock to this particular spot in Old Cairo, but I found it intriguing. Though I am sure that many of them are not very old, as I wondered through this maze of monuments to the dead, I began to notice the many angels, artfully rendered in fine stone, who appear to be morning, or sometimes protecting the inhabitants. Many were very fine works of art, all different, and one must wonder who creates such art, perhaps even today. I’ll have to return to Babylon on this trip, because I became so enchanted with these sculptures that I really didn’t get much else accomplished. After that, we paid a short visit to the Southern Cemetery, where many people live today. I should note that I was the only tourist in the area, but there was never any feeling that I might be in any sort of danger. People, as always, were friendly, and as common people in Egypt often are, a bit curious. Later, we ended the day by driving up the mountains behind the Citadel and getting some good photographs of it from behind, as well as a grand view of Cairo. Though it was daylight, that would have also made an excellent place to take night shots.

A view from the Citadel

That brings me to today, and to a real test to see how safe Americans are in Cairo. I began by visiting the Citadel, which is no problem at all. There is lots of security there. I was mainly interested in photographing the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, and getting some shots from the ramparts that overlook the city. However, my real goal for the day was wondering down the common market that stretches from the Khan el-Khalili almost all the way to the Citadel. This is where very average Egyptians shop for everything from food to clothing to building supplies. There is a textile area, but in general, almost no souvenirs. I know the occasional tourist sometimes finds his or her way into the maze of small streets in old Islamic Cairo, but today it seems that I was the only foreigner about. At least I saw no others.

Resting on my walk

People frequently ask me about safety in Egypt, and I believe Egypt is very safe. Certainly, there are always bad people somewhere, whether in the streets of New York, London, Paris or where ever one might travel, including Egypt. It is the way of the world. So over the years, I will go places and do things that tourists might not often do, just to make sure that what I say is true when I tell people that Egypt is safe.

I have always found Egyptians to be honest, peaceful and hospitable souls. They are a kind, civilized people who, after all, invented civilization. Nothing seems to have changed. As I walked through this rather poor neighborhood, I was not really surprised by how welcome I felt. Here, shop owners are not at all aggressive, but they smile, and the children come to offer you their greetings. At one point, tired and exhausted, I found an empty chair beside a shop that sold building supplies, and was welcomed by the owner to sit and rest a while, even though neither of us could understand the other’s language.

One must keep in mind that Egyptians are not only moderates religiously, they are a hard working people, who worry about feeding their families more than about world politics and such. It is difficult these days, with the increase in gas prices that has also affected Egypt, for many Egyptians. But that is where their thoughts are, and mostly what they seem to want most is a world at peace and safety and health for their families.

I made no secret that I was an American, and by the way, it was just me on this walk. I took no Egyptian friends along. People would ask my nationality, being he curious people that they are, and I would always come straight out and tell them American. Nevertheless, there was never, ever a hostile stare or an unfriendly glance. On the contrary, the experience warmed me as only common Egyptian folk can. They are such a lovely people, full of life, beautiful and wonderfully hospitable. I honestly believe that, were all the world Egyptians, it would be a much more peaceful place.

The Hardee’s Crew

By the way. I ended this day by having a late afternoon lunch and my favorite haunt, just down from the Hotel Longchamps. Regrettably I suppose, while I love different cultures, and am an old Texas meat and potato guy, who isn’t as much into foreign food as I should be, given what I do. My favored place to Eat in Zamalek is Hardees. I’ve been eating at this same location, which appears to be sort of a hot spot amongst the younger crowd, for perhaps the last eight years. Today, I had a chilly burger, and finally decided I should take a shot of the crew there.

Today I am safe and sound in Cairo – home at the Hotel Longchamps, and loving it, though I have some sleep to catch up on. I flew in on EgyptAir, how I normally travel to Egypt, and it was a nice flight.

I have always enjoyed flying EgyptAir. Many years ago, when I first began going to Egypt, I flew KLM. That was nice, but then I took my first EgyptAir flight, non-stop from New York to Cairo, and since then I have never flown another airline to Egypt. There are several reasons for that. Of course, as Egyptians tend to be, the crew are great hosts. Egyptians are always great hosts. I have often thought that it is in their blood to be so, having greeted so many tourists for literally thousands of years.

Yet, what I like most about flying EgyptAir, is that, from the moment I step onboard, I feel like I am in Egypt, and that is nice. I do love Egypt, and flying EgyptAir allows me to stay a few hours longer. It all has a practical side though. I always meet Egyptians, and some of them have become good friends over the years. Frequently, before the end of a flight, I have been invited to dinner somewhere, or been told of a special place I must visit. Some of the Egyptians I meet on EgyptAir have even become important contacts. This time, for example, I met a Coptic priest from the White Monastery, who I am very sure will be an excellent contact, considering that I hope to do some updating of Egypt’s ancient Christian sites in the near future. Then, there are also my other fellow traveler – the tourists, some wide-eyed with excitement on their first visit to Egypt, a few seasoned visitors, but all of them fellow enthusiasts of this ancient land. It is always a joy to meet them, and once again, I end up making a few long term friends with people of a common interest. Anyway, there was bad weather about, but we had a very professional Captain aboard named Kareem Lalch who did an excellent job, and I have to say he was very gracious as well.

Landing in Cairo I was met by Ahmed, our truly remarkable manager in Cairo who makes things rock and roll. We’ve kept him darn busy lately arranging what is, after all, a reasonably difficult expedition, and as usually, he works miracles.

I spent the night jetlagged I’m afraid, at my home away from home, the Hotel Longchamps. I cannot call it all mine, as there are a number of Egyptologists, diplomats and savvy tourists who also make it their home as well. Now, its gotten a bit better though with free wireless internet, the first three star hotel in Cairo to use this technology.

 

I did manage to make it to my appointment with Zahi Hawass this morning, September 21, 2006. Keep an eye out. He has just been involved with a new book, big enough to build temples with, that documents the monuments all over Egypt. Looks like a remarkable work. However, I think the big news is that we will be working a bit more closely with the Director of the Supreme Council of Antiquities. I have always been a fan of Dr. Hawass. I really do believe that he has made some outstanding improvements in the Egyptian antiquity front, some of which may or may not be obvious to the average visitor. For example, even though there remains some vendors and nonsense at the Great Pyramids, it is nothing like what was happening before his appointment to head the Council. Otherwise, I do believe that he truly cares, perhaps more than any of his predecessors, about the gifts from the past. Therefore, I am thrilled that Tour Egypt will be working with him much more in the future.

So tomorrow, my work really begins. We have, as is typical, had to adjust some of our schedules, but early in the morning, even before dawn, we will be approaching some of the more significant pyramids near Cairo from a very different prospective. Afterwards, I will probably spend the day in Coptic Cairo and perhaps some in Islamic Cairo before beginning our main push into the Delta. Stay tuned for some good photographs and some new info, and also keep in mind that tonight Egypt’s time will fall back one hour.

Tipping guides, hotel and cruise staff is another issue. On a Nile cruise, the standard recommended tip amount is $5 per person per day of the cruise - so for a couple on a 4-day cruise that would be $40. This is normally handed to the cruise boat reception staff in an envelope when you check out, and then the sum is divided between all the departments on the boat - housekeeping, food & beverage, front office staff, etc. However, if you feel a particular staff member or members have performed exceptionally, then by all means slip them a little extra. For my part, I always tend to make friends with the housekeeping staff (you can expect to have the same one or two persons taking care of your cabin for the duration of the cruise) which ensures my cabin receives a little extra attention for which I’m happy to show my appreciation at the end.

In hotels there are no set guidelines; if you wish to thank members of the housekeeping staff for taking good care of your room, particularly after a multiple-night stay, then by all means offer them a token of your appreciation before you leave. The bellman who carries your bags to and from your room deserves at least LE5 per bag (more if they’re really heavy!), and if the doorman has helped you by getting a taxi for you, assisting with directions and information, etc., it would be nice to give him LE10 or so when you leave. Please note, these are only suggested guidelines, you are free to tip as much or as little as you like - after all, it’s the thought that counts!

As for tour guides, that is entirely at your discretion. If you feel that the guide has been exceptionally informative, knowledgeable and personable, then give from the heart. If you have a single guide for one full day’ touring, then I might suggest that $10-20 would be a nice gesture (or the equivalent in LE). If you have the same guide over a longer period or on a Nile cruise program, then multiply that by the number of days. I’ve heard from colleagues in the industry (professional tour guides) about some generous clients who have tipped them $100 for one day’s work, while at the other end of the scale some clients don’t tip at all! I stress again, it is whatever you feel comfortable giving based on the quality of the service you have received.

As for site custodians, this is something of a special case that merits clarification. At practically every tourist site there will be numerous people lurking around trying to look “official” and offer assistance, for which they will undoubtedly expect compensation - sometimes even for taking your photo with your own camera! I witness this all the time at all the tourist sites I visit, and it drives me to distraction. The best advice I can offer you is, if someone performs an actual service, e.g. opening a closed area, showing me a point of interest that I would not have otherwise seen, offers useful, interesting and ACCURATE information, or has otherwise enhanced my visit, then I have no problem with tipping LE2 - LE5 or more. However, if someone expects a tip for just standing there taking the tickets, pointing at a relief and saying “Ramses!”, tries to wrestle my camera from my grip in order to take pictures of me that I don’t even want, follows me around and won’t go away even when I have told them I don’t want any assistance, or worse, flat out asks me for money just because I happen to be within a 6-foot radius, then I tend to lose my patience. Further, if I have given someone a fair tip for a minor service and they stare at it as if I’ve just insulted them, or dare to ask for more, then I really give them an earful - lol!

I would further like to mention that while you are in Egypt you will undoubtedly encounter raggedy children on the street and forlorn-looking mothers clutching sickly-looking babies (who are not always as poor as they look) asking you for money. In this situation, as with all of the above, do NOT feel pressured into dishing out cash just because it is asked for. The key here is, give if you feel a tip is warranted for a service rendered, or if it touches your heart.

For this reason it’s always good to keep lots of small bills and coins (LE1, 50 and 25 piastres) in your pocket at all times for just such occasions. After all, when you think about it, we’re only talking about a pound or two here and there, much less than the price of a cup of coffee in your own country. One final point to bear in mind is that, if you choose tip anyone in foreign currency, please give them paper money only – coins are not accepted for exchange at any bank here in Egypt. Unfortunately a surprising amount of people dish out their pocket change without thinking, probably not even realising that the unfortunate recipients cannot redeem the money! I can’t tell you the number of times I’m asked by locals to change Euros, sterling and other coins for Egyptian pounds. I always do it, even though I can’t change them either, but I figure I’d rather help out the poor person who was landed with a tip that he can’t even spend!

As usual, I’ve rambled on at great length but I feel that this is an issue that merits clarification. I hope you’ve found it helpful.”

PS: One important issue that I forgot to mention in my original post: tips to wait staff in restaurants. On your bill you will see an amount added for taxes and another for “service charge”. The latter actually goes to the house, not to the wait staff themselves, therefore it is customary to leave a 10-15% tip - provided the service has been satisfactory of course!

Here is the context of the 2 messages from V. Dobrev about the date. Hope this helps with your reserach into the 6th Dynasty Old Kingdom kings.
Fabian

Dear Mr. Boudville,

As I have showed it on a slide during the 8th ICE in Cairo, the 32nd year appears on a stone that belongs to the body of the pyramid of Pepy I. It is highly improbable that this pyramid was already destroyed during the time of Pepy II and that this date belongs to his reign.
Yours sincerely,

V. Dobrev

_________________

Dear Mr. Dobrev,

You kindly informed me in June 2001 that a stone block which was
uncovered from Pepi I’s pyramid bears the date: Year of the 32nd Count.
You interpreted this to mean Year 32 of Pepi I’s 48 or 49 year reign.
However, a friend of mine has pointed out that Pepi II is known to have
performed some restoration work in the latter part of his reign. For
instance, a restoration edict for Menkaure’s temple is dated to the
Year of the 31st Count of Pepi II.

Can we be certain that the 32nd Count stone block was not part of
any restoration work performed by Pepi I’s grandson–Pepi II?
Personally, I would think not since the temple priests wld have fully
maintained Pepi I’s pyramid up to Pepi II’s later years at least. But
admittedly, I don’t know the full circumstances of this find–whether
this stone block was found deeply imbedded within Pepi I’s pyramid or
portruding out of the pyramid. If the former is the case, then the 32nd
Count must surely belong to Pepi I’s reign as Pepi II wld likely have
made repairs only to the exterior facade of his grandfather’s pyramid.
Thank You.

Dear Dr. Boudville,

During the 8th International Congress of Egyptologists at Cairo (2000) I gave a lecture about the Builders’ Inscriptions from the Pyramid of King Pepy I (VIth Dynasty) and I hope this paper will be soon published in the Proceedings of the Congress by the American University Press (Cairo). I said that one stone from the pyramid of Pepy mentions the 32nd year of his reign. That does not mean that this is a biannual count but just the 32nd year. Therefore, a 63rd year of Pepy is excluded. For the moment, the highest year of Pepy appears to be the 25 biannual count on the South Saqqara Stone, the 49th year. I still believe that biannual counts existed during the VIth dynasty, but for official documents, like the South Saqqara Stone.

With my best regards,
Vassil Dobrev

—————

Dear Dr. Dobrev,
Can you please tell me if you have recently discovered a 32nd Count for Pharaoh Pepi I?
Dr. Kanawati from McvQuarie University mentioned something about your
discovery here in an E-mail to me a few months ago.
I just ask you this question because I thought that in your
1995 BIFAO article about the Saqqara Stone, you mentioned that the
highest date for Pepi I was his 25th Count?
Also, none of the journals like JEA or GM has mentioned a 32nd
Count for Pepi I yet. Such a high count for Pepi I wld imply that a
Biannual cattle count could not have existed in the 6th Dynasty since
it wld mean Pepi I ruled for 63 yrs. (Dr.
Kanawati mentioned your discovery to suggest that a Biannual count for
Dynasty 6 is highly unlikely)
Thank You. Any reply which you can send about this discovery will
be deeply appreciated.

On the 13th Year of Takelot III

I have some news for you. In Kennth Kitchen’s first 1972 book on the Third Intermediate Period in Egypt, Kitchen thought the anonymous Year 19 king at Wadi Gasus whose Year 19 is equivalent to Year 12 of Piye was Takelot III. However, he switched his opinion as to the king;s identity to Iuput II of Leontopolis in his 2nd edition 1986 TIPE book. However, most scholars have doubted Kitchen’s new proposal that Iuput controlled Wadi Gasus in Middle Egypt far from the Delta because Iuput II’s authority in the Delta alone was very tenous–he didn’t even control Memphis which was under the authority of Tefnakht of Sais. .

It seems now that Kitchen was right in the first place in 1972–the Year 19 king was likely Takelot III all along. A Dutch-Flemish institution called PalArch has now posted a short abstract of Olaf Kaper’s upcoming JEOL paper on the new Year 13 stela online. (see page 10 below.) Before this discovery, Takelot III’s highest Year date was only his Year 7. From a friend in Holland, I know it is a donation stela by the Chief of the Shamin Libyans, NesDjehuti, who also appears in the Smaller Dakhleh Stela which dates to Year 24 of Piye. (see Janssen, JEA 54(1968) pp.166-71)
http://www.palarch.nl/Archaeology/pro-2005-1-3.pdf

PS: I also wrote an article on Wikipedia on Takelot III which includes data from Berlin Papyrus 3048 which likely mentions Year 14 of Takelot III, not II. Regards. Fabian
Here is the URL: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takelot_III

On the South Saqqara Stone:

Have you heard about the South Saqqara Stone? You didn’t mention it in any of your discussions on Merenre, Pepi I or Teti. It is a VI Dynasty Annal document that was carved during Pepi II’s reign. Although partly erased, it still preserves valuable inscriptions and several year dates from Pepi I, Teti’s and Merenre’s reigns. It also confirms that Pepi I died in the Year of his 25th Cattle Count and that Teti had a 12 year reign. Michel Baud and Vassil Dobrev published it in the 1990’s in the French serial BIFAO.

Please note the author’s estimate of the reign lengths of Teti, Userkare, Merenre and Pepi I. According to them, the Cattle Count was BIANNUAL in Dynasty 6. Its data is definitely more reliable than Manetho or the Turin Canon which were composed thousands of years later. PS: the Usurper Userkare definitely exists–he is mentioned in this document itself.
Here is a web link to the story below in English. Regards. Fabian
http://xoomer.virgilio.it/francescoraf/hesyra/ssannals.htm

1- The Egyptian Museum - el-Mat-Haf.
2- The Pyramids - el-Ahram
3- The Citadel - el-Qal’aa
4- Cairo Tower - Borg il Qahira.
5- The Zoo - Geneinet al-hayawanaat
6- Khan el-Khalili
7- The Hanging Church - al kanisa al Mu’alaqa

But zahraa, a tour guide from Alex, and soon to be our Alexandria News blogger, couldn’t hold it to ten.

1- The Egyptian Museum - el-Mat-Haf.
2- The Pyramids - el-Ahram but better say (el haram)
4- Cairo Tower - Borg il Qahira.(borg el geziera) - Zamalik.
5- The Zoo - Geneinet al-hayawanaat
6. you can say souk khan el khalili and el azahar mousque ( gama’ el alazahr)
7- The Hanging Church - al kanisa al Mu’alaqa and coptic museum ( el mat-haf el kipty) but i recomand to go old cairo (misr el qadimaa ) not just a church becouse all the area is amazing it is same like Multi-Religious Compound
8. phoranic village ( el kariaa el phor’ania)
9. Museum of Islamic Ceramics ( matahaf el khazaf)..
10. Abdeen Palace Museum Complex ( kasar abdeen)
11. The Manial Palace (kasr el manil ) garden city.
12- Nile Felluca Ride or Nile Cruise for a few hours.
13. el azahar park
14. memphis and saqqara
15. el moaz street ( sh’ra’ el mo’az)

For the first time in Egypt and the Middle East, T.E.N Tours Egypt is organizing an International Yoga Festival during the time between March 1 to 7 2006. With an early start for Yoga and Meditation, and with healthy, delicious vegetarian foods, we will offer you a perfect chance for a life giving and renewing break in one of the magical cities on the Red Sea, Hurghada.

The Yoga festival will be held in the five Star Deluxe Hotel, Le Meridien Makadi Bay, which is located on the breathtaking Red Sea coast approximately 30 minutes drive from the eclectic city center of Hurghada. Facing the magical water of Egypt ’s virgin Red Sea , between golden desert dunes and spectacular mountain ranges, Le Meridien Makadi Bay is an experience of supreme beauty.

We are excited about introducing the art of Yoga in Egypt & Middle East and explain the benefits of Yoga & how it might be used in treating diseases. And we do plan to have this International Yoga festival annually every 1st of March. Our target audience is 1000 PAX from all over the world.

The festival will be covered by International & local, with Press Conference, Media and Satellite Channels, Printing & Promotional Materials

Festival Program in Brief :

Seminars & Lectures:

Introducing the art of yoga & its benefits , Yoga & Naturopathy , Yogic management for pregnancy , history and philosophy of the science of Yoga ,Hatha Yoga, Jnana Yoga , Raja Yoga , Bhakti Yoga , Karma Yoga, The Contribution of Yoga to the field of physical education , Yoga & Ayurveda ,Importance of Pranayama.

Meditation Rooms:

Meditation Rooms/Tents allow our guests to try various forms to help find inner peace and sanctuary.

Demonstrations:

Yoga demonstrations by some of the leading Yoga experts.

Workshops:

Workshops will be held indoors on the beach facing the Red Sea ,Mountain & Desert which will include : Yogic management for pregnancy, Yoga postures for beginners , Suryanamsakar, Yoga postures for back pain, Yoga postures for diabetes and gastrointestinal disorders, Yogic management for hypertension, Insomnia, and stress, Yoga Nidra , Yoga postures for the Intermediate level, Anulom-Vilom Pranayama, Practicing of Bhramari Pranayama, Yoga postures for the advanced level,Yogic exercises for overall body flexibility, Relaxation techniques, Yogic Scuba Diving.

Bazaar Exhibitors:

A Bazaar will be held for teacher training, clothing, retreats, music, meditation, nutritional information and products, holidays, courses, mats bags …etc.

Main Participants:

O.P. Tiwari:

Shrimati Amolak Devi Tirathram Gupta Yogic Hospital Gordhandas Seksaria: College of Yoga & Cultural Synthesis & Scientific and Philosophic-literary Research Department & Kaivalyadhama Ashram.

Jhala Chandrasinhji:

Director of Physical Education in Bhavnagar University , Bhavnagar ( India ).
Master of Physical Education (M.P.E.).
1 st Class First in Gujarat University.

Dr. Meena Shetty:

Resident Medical Officer, Yoga Specialist and Naturopath. Mukesh Kumar:
Lecturer in Department of Yoga.
JSS Institute of Yoga & Naturopathy Sciences.

Guests of Honor:

Kimberlee Jensen Stedl:

Kimberlee is a certified yoga instructor (200-hour Registered Yoga Teacher). She is certified in the YogaFit style, and has yoga experience in a variety of yoga disciplines. She has practiced yoga for more than eight years.

Todd Stedl, Ph.D.:

Todd has a master scuba diver and a PADI-certified divemaster. He has assisted as a dive master for numerous instructors for the past three years, working primarily with Blue Frontier Diving.

Kelly Johnston:

Has studied Asana and Pranayama with the Bikram, Iyenger and Bihar schools in the United States and India. Kelly recently completed Reiki I training and is currently working on a technique that combines Yoga Nidra (a method for deep relaxation) and Reiki to facilitate the awakening of the subtle body by means of chakra awareness, visualization and mantra.

Swami Chaitanya Keerti:

Swami Keerti is the Editor of Osho World magazine published in two languages (in Hindi and in English separately).

Helle Joan Hansen:

Helle is a yoga Instructor in Denmark

For more details please check : http://www.egyptyogafestival.com

Contact Info:

Sameh Komeha
Festival Operation Manager

T.E.N Tours

IATA No. 90 - 210632 or 90210632

Egyptian Ministry of Tourism License No. 1079

Tel.: +20 (2) 267 53 77

Fax.:+20 (2) 267 53 88
Cel.: +20 (0) 10 1717 323

E-mail: sameh@egyptyogafestival.com

Annual events in the Islamic calendar do vary from year to year, the reason being that the Islamic calendar is a lunar calendar and months begin when the first crescent of a new moon is sighted. Because the calendar has no correction for the fact that the lunar year is 11-12 days shorter than the solar year, Ramadan migrates throughout the seasons - therefore each annual event starts 11-12 days earlier than the previous year. The holy month of Ramadan will start this year on or around October 4th (depending on the crescent moon sighting) and end on or around November 3rd.

Visiting Egypt during Ramadan has both advantages and disadvantages. The disadvantages, at least those that affect tourists, include:

… shorter hours at tourist sites - most will close by 3pm in order to give people time to get home to break the fast at dusk with their families

… many shops will close early also; the larger ones have a set Ramadan schedule and may close for up to 2 hours, while smaller local shops normally take a 30 minute or so break to eat

… some local restaurants will be closed during daylight fasting hours, but open in the early evening. Others, such as fast food restaurants in tourist areas, may stay open as usual. NOTE: While foreign tourists are not expected to observe the fast, I always recommend that visitors show their respect for their Egyptian hosts by not eating, drinking and smoking out in public. By this I don’t mean you shouldn’t carry around a bottle of water with you, I’m talking more in terms of walking down the street eating McDonalds for example!
Of course hotels and cruise boats are a different matter entirely, their restaurants will be open as usual and you may eat, drink and smoke as you wish.

… chaos on the streets - avoid trying to get around town (especially Cairo) in the two hours before dusk, as the majority of the population is on the move
- tired, hungry and trying to get home in time to break the fast in horrendous traffic jams, so tempers sometimes flare!

… it’s not the ideal time to try and conduct business in Egypt, as everything happens at a more, shall we say, “relaxed” pace. That, coupled with the shorter working hours and the effects of fasting and staying up all night (see below) makes productivity plummet! However, this doesn’t normally effect tourism per se.

… I wouldn’t recommend trying to do any desert excursions or wilderness safaris during this period - I doubt you’d find a guide willing to undertake such an excursion while fasting, unless he’s Christian of course.

… you won’t see any traditional weddings in the 5-star hotels, etc. as people don’t get married during Ramadan. Also you won’t see any belly dancers during the holy month!

As for the advantages of visiting Egypt during Ramadan:

… culturally, it’s a very interesting time to be here. There is very much a community spirit that prevails during the month, everyone is more or less on the same schedule, everyone is fasting together (I estimate at least 90% of the population), and generally speaking people are a little more serene and get on together better - lol!

Despite the pre-dusk chaos on the streets that I mentioned, once the “break fast” starts the chaos is quickly replaced by a feeling of serenity and peace as people are in their homes eating and praying with their families. It’s certainly the quietest and calmest period you’ll ever experience in Egypt - lol! It’s quite something to imagine millions of people all doing the same thing at the same time, united in their beliefs and traditions.

And if you are lucky enough to be invited to an Egyptian home to break the fast it is a special opportunity that you shouldn’t pass up! The ladies of the household prepare gargantuan meals - there are even special dishes associated with Ramadan - everyone eats their fill and then passes out in front of the TV for a while… reminds me of my childhood Christmases back in the UK, except here they repeat the ritual every day for 30 days - lol!
Usually the first few days of Ramadan are reserved for family get togethers, thereafter people tend to throw their homes open to friends and guests and so it’s a very good time for socializing.

Evenings are very special, festive occasions… after the first (quiet) week of Ramadan people get more into the party spirit and become practically nocturnal! We tend to say that Cairo is the city that never sleeps, but it’s even more lively during Ramadan as all activity intensifies overnight! People spend all night down by the Nile, on the bridges, in the parks and gardens, filling the down town streets. You’ll find shops, cafes and restaurants open practically all night, with many places offering special entertainment programs with famous musicians and singers, or sometimes folkloric shows.

Many of the bigger restaurants and hotels set up special Ramadan tents where the entertainment goes on all night, up to the time when people must take their final meal (called “suhour”) before the fast starts again at dawn.

Even the streets themselves are more festive, with shops and businesses decorated with streamers and brightly coloured traditional Ramadan lanterns called “fawanees”, hand-made from tin and coloured glass. This tradition dates back a 1000 years or so when such lanterns were used to light the procession which went to view the moon and to announce the start and end of each day’s fast. In the 15th century the governor of Cairo ordered everybody to put such a lantern in front of their house, a tradition that still continues today! I love the fawanees, I go every year to buy one or two from certain areas in old Islamic Cairo where they are still hand made.

As we say in Arabic on special/traditional occasions: KULL SANA WINTU TAYYIBEEN! Literally: May you be well every year!