September 23rd, 2006 - Still Live from the LongChamps
Cairo by Night from the Cairo Tower
Since I last wrote, I have indeed been busy, making a stop at the Cairo Tower to photograph Cairo by night, roaming through the desert just outside Cairo in order to approach some of the pyramids and other ruins at Dashure and Saqqara from a different angle, visiting old Coptic Cairo, and being captivated by the angels of Babylon, visiting the Citadel and even taking a walk though the old common bazaar between the Kan el-Khalili and the Citadel.
The day before yesterday, I started out the morning with a visit to Zahi Hawass. I have to admit that I am a fan of his, as I think that his first love is the Antiquities of Egypt, and protecting them. Some of his policies have not always been excessively popular among some, but those are usually the crackpots and hooligans of Egyptology. I very much hope that he and Tour Egypt can work together on some future projects.
Though my home in Egypt is on Zamalek, the garden island, at the Hotel Longchamps, I nevertheless had never visited the Cairo Tower. Its a tube shaped structure with a restaurant and an observation balcony at the top, affording a great view all about the city. Its a wonderful place to do a little night photography, and I did exactly that. From there, one may even see the pyramids of Giza under perfect conditions, though alas there was a bit of haze the night before last when I visited the tower. Of course, for night photography, one should really bring along a tripod, which I had, and be mindful that it can be pretty windy. However, the effort is certainly rewarding.
The Black Pyramid at Dashure
Then, yesterday, aboard a brand new Jeep wagon, which may have been a bit too nice for the journey, I set off with Maryanne Stroud of “Living in Egypt” fame early in the morning for an adventure. We were sneaking up on pyramids, and other monuments as only Maryanne knows how to do, though the desert from the back side. What a bumpy, sandy, sometimes hair raising and wonderful tour. I had actually never made it up to the Black Pyramid, nor to South Saqqara which is currently closed, but through the desert all things are possible. She is oh so familiar with this little part of Egypt, knowing even who lives where along the desert edge, and running in to old friends on horseback in the middle of the dunes. Needless to say, I got some great, and rather unusual shots of some of Egypt’s most wonderful pyramids, and not another human usually anywhere about.
An Angel at Babylon
That afternoon we, myself and a driver, went on to Old Cairo, sometimes called Coptic Cairo, and specifically Fort Babylon. There, I discovered what many references usually seem to ignore, a vast graveyard. Tourists do not seem to flock to this particular spot in Old Cairo, but I found it intriguing. Though I am sure that many of them are not very old, as I wondered through this maze of monuments to the dead, I began to notice the many angels, artfully rendered in fine stone, who appear to be morning, or sometimes protecting the inhabitants. Many were very fine works of art, all different, and one must wonder who creates such art, perhaps even today. I’ll have to return to Babylon on this trip, because I became so enchanted with these sculptures that I really didn’t get much else accomplished. After that, we paid a short visit to the Southern Cemetery, where many people live today. I should note that I was the only tourist in the area, but there was never any feeling that I might be in any sort of danger. People, as always, were friendly, and as common people in Egypt often are, a bit curious. Later, we ended the day by driving up the mountains behind the Citadel and getting some good photographs of it from behind, as well as a grand view of Cairo. Though it was daylight, that would have also made an excellent place to take night shots.
A view from the Citadel
That brings me to today, and to a real test to see how safe Americans are in Cairo. I began by visiting the Citadel, which is no problem at all. There is lots of security there. I was mainly interested in photographing the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, and getting some shots from the ramparts that overlook the city. However, my real goal for the day was wondering down the common market that stretches from the Khan el-Khalili almost all the way to the Citadel. This is where very average Egyptians shop for everything from food to clothing to building supplies. There is a textile area, but in general, almost no souvenirs. I know the occasional tourist sometimes finds his or her way into the maze of small streets in old Islamic Cairo, but today it seems that I was the only foreigner about. At least I saw no others.
Resting on my walk
People frequently ask me about safety in Egypt, and I believe Egypt is very safe. Certainly, there are always bad people somewhere, whether in the streets of New York, London, Paris or where ever one might travel, including Egypt. It is the way of the world. So over the years, I will go places and do things that tourists might not often do, just to make sure that what I say is true when I tell people that Egypt is safe.
I have always found Egyptians to be honest, peaceful and hospitable souls. They are a kind, civilized people who, after all, invented civilization. Nothing seems to have changed. As I walked through this rather poor neighborhood, I was not really surprised by how welcome I felt. Here, shop owners are not at all aggressive, but they smile, and the children come to offer you their greetings. At one point, tired and exhausted, I found an empty chair beside a shop that sold building supplies, and was welcomed by the owner to sit and rest a while, even though neither of us could understand the other’s language.
One must keep in mind that Egyptians are not only moderates religiously, they are a hard working people, who worry about feeding their families more than about world politics and such. It is difficult these days, with the increase in gas prices that has also affected Egypt, for many Egyptians. But that is where their thoughts are, and mostly what they seem to want most is a world at peace and safety and health for their families.
I made no secret that I was an American, and by the way, it was just me on this walk. I took no Egyptian friends along. People would ask my nationality, being he curious people that they are, and I would always come straight out and tell them American. Nevertheless, there was never, ever a hostile stare or an unfriendly glance. On the contrary, the experience warmed me as only common Egyptian folk can. They are such a lovely people, full of life, beautiful and wonderfully hospitable. I honestly believe that, were all the world Egyptians, it would be a much more peaceful place.
The Hardee’s Crew
By the way. I ended this day by having a late afternoon lunch and my favorite haunt, just down from the Hotel Longchamps. Regrettably I suppose, while I love different cultures, and am an old Texas meat and potato guy, who isn’t as much into foreign food as I should be, given what I do. My favored place to Eat in Zamalek is Hardees. I’ve been eating at this same location, which appears to be sort of a hot spot amongst the younger crowd, for perhaps the last eight years. Today, I had a chilly burger, and finally decided I should take a shot of the crew there.